Does The Spectra Polaroid Need Battaries?

Rocheuse et Grande Aiguille Verte - face N

Goulotte Vivagel 4/IV 1000m

After 15 days in the U.S. and Canada to spicozzare waterfalls on the desire of high mountain back, and Max had been a while that we planned on the N wall of the gully Vivagel Rocheuse in the Argentiere basin.

As far as possible from home during my absence, he has been keeping an eye conditions, and I never fail to read the recent reports of the groups that gave the couloir is Couturier good as any other gully. But as if by magic, we find ourselves at the base of the wall and Couturier is under less than good.

As often happens, the conditions can change suddenly. Even the slide Initial Droites has darkened long after our visit a few weeks ago.

However, the snow fall in recent days (about the Grands Montets 20/25cm) has accumulated in the first 100m of the climb Couturier making annoying, and shortly afterwards, the slide becomes much snow or ice spaccoso hard left and much of the slope, or flour stored on ice, then no door on the right calf in flames .... guaranteed.

The gully itself, but it's very good, but alas is only 3 shots, then reach for the channel leading to the Great Rocheuse. Unfortunately I was unwell and on top of the gully we went on long double the ascent route.

abalakovs There are everywhere, but attention to jump the lines to make twice as long, because often you find yourself having to go 64-65m to reach the next rope.

At this time the terminal is passed or left (our case) or to the right. In any case, after spending the crevasse, we must make a long traverse to get to the center of the channel. In descent, to avoid going over the transom, we went down to the rocks to the left lower face upstream, reaching the end of the beam (see photo 1). There's a lanyard or yellow on a spike from which one can approach the edge of the terminal. Unfortunately there is not ice and have "patented" a cross between an hourglass and a mushroom of snow that has allowed us to get off the wall of the terminal (impressive but not dangerous, the ropes 60 is enough).

here are some photos ...

in red ride uphill ... in the yellow two anchors to prevent the descent through

on Max plates of ice

Max calves with hot plates on ice Couturier. Behind him the Aiguille d'Argentiere in all its glory, and left the Aiguille de Chardonnait

First pitch of Vivagel

Max on the second shot

out of the gully

at the end of the most beautiful part of the day was the descent into the powder ... and told by an ice climber says a lot about the channel conditions: - )

the Argentiere basin is a magical place for ... walls, lights and show that the mountain gives us every time! To end in beauty of the day we crossed under the N wall of the Argentiere glacier Droites to return.