Baiedo Rocca (752 m - Lombardy Alps)
Via Loneliness Elf + (170 m, D, V - V-comp.)
Wednesday, June 8, 2010
Via Loneliness Elf + (170 m, D, V - V-comp.)
Wednesday, June 8, 2010
bigiare Sometimes it's good, skip school (or work), to missing ...
's so that Tuesday, June 8, towards evening, and my partner-mate Davide snacks, we decided to brave the weather forecast not so rosy and groped to take a morning on the vertical ... Obviously we do this in silence, because he knows that if she is blind luck, bad luck sees us well and we feel like nothing in this world ...
The meeting with David and Ballabio at 7, where we arrive punctually. We set off from the usual boy to make breakfast, morning to do anything and then we look at each other: we practically only a half day, we are undecided whether to go up in Tower Fiorelli Grignetta or go do something more "low", the more difficult as spicy, but more "quiet" in terms of access and fall ... In short, the decision is taken: we are heading Baiedo.
The morning promises to be hot, very hot ...
It 'really suitable and we take the luxury of making us a second cup of coffee (and a second visit to the baths of Valsassina, just in case). It's almost 8, we go ...
leave the car in the space to the left of Baiedo Bridge and head toward the base of the wall of the fortress. We are walking to feel a shriek coming by a car passing on the road:
"Where andateeee !!!!!!!!?????"
E 'Mark, Butch Anghileri, who, with hawk's eye, we have recognized from a distance, mnetre oncoming car. and has "awakened" from the torpor of the morning walk. A greeting on the fly and on ... Later I will say that you saw that we were "bigiando" and we had the same air that the kids who are going to do damage in the pantry of the mother ...
We decide to go down a path which comes from the conjunction of two different routes, ie the first four pitches of Elf and the last two shots (plus one for "processing") Loneliness of the street ... The
street is very beautiful, continuous, sustained, always between the IV +, V-and V.
160/170 meters long, uses plates with holes and flexures free from vegetation, with exciting passages in the plate, technicians, plus a pair of athletic movements.
The description sounds very good, David has already covered Solitude, but never Elf path ... Luigi, the Slowrun, however, he advocated the union of these two pathways, indicating that in this way, you get a nice road, steady, sustained, again around the fifth grade. If it says Louis ... David immediately agreed and off we go.
Attacking you arrive in five minutes scarce, except for David, which are needed ten seen that, as usual, forgets something. This time, in addition to having forgotten my camera, he also left the helmet in the car ... Never mind, I remain to unravel the rope and he goes to take the protection ... As it should be ....
At the base, some writing (ugly to say the truth) clearly indicate the attachment point of the Elf away, putting a pretty close "5th", which, translated into degrees Christians, mean V grade. In fact, the three pitches and a half, or four if you prefer, the Elf is a hymn to the fifth grade. Cracked plates, strapiombino, diedrino, fireplace-overhanging dihedral ... Everything is there.
Around us, the green lushness of late spring, a quantity absurd flowers and red lilies, majestic in their orange and haughty beauty. That will be the constant of lilies, along with the verticality and pleasure, our tour today ... We go
Elf to pull off the not-too-long, steady, enjoying the climbing. There are a few nails and some spit, but the ability to place protections "to integration are many and secure. First we go back a plate, beautiful, compact, and then move to take a really nice strapiombino that, unlike what is shown on some reports, you win more than technical and wits of that strength. Then a sort of reverse dihedral formed by a blade and a plate that still relies to a fireplace-diedrino a little 'overhang from which you leave on the last plate, where a sort of path leads to join with the way Solitude. The difficulties are constant between the IV +, V-and a whole lot 'of V. Climbing fabulous holes and handles are placed just where ...
around us at every step, appear, hanging from the rocks, more lilies, a sort of landings of the house, on which a skilful hand, instead of the geraniums, it decided to place these beautiful flowers that was so fond my mother and that from an early age I learned to respect, because they are much more beautiful on our own habitat, which cut into a vase ...
So far we have come some four tirelli, moderate short, about 20-25 meters. The possibilities offered by the wall to stop at will are not few and we used to chat and watch us, below us, Valsassina ...
off again, we lack the final two fabulous shots of Solitude ... These are two superb shots that seem crafted for the lover of the vertical.
The first is a plate that goes up and slightly to the left, then navigate on the right holds a minimum, get up a little, take a pair of vertical blades and back again to the left, towards a large tree planted in the middle of the wall ... It almost seems put there to allow those who break the salt, giving a little 'welcome shade of ...
Above us, the last shot shows only the first part: a plate crossed by a blade, having thus, seems to be the work of the imagination of Hans Dülfer ... But it is just the beginning ...
blade allows a stunning rise and elegant technique, and then ask you to follow to the right, ascending, another pair of small blades, for getting almost the right edge of the plate. Above us, not far from the plateau of the summit ... But this separates us from a very peppery traversatina left ...
The transition is by no means straightforward: you need to get a meter yet, using a handle for a low profile and then, to navigate, it is necessary to rely on the tightness of the shoes. To keep your balance, a small rock protruding a bit 'darker ...
A pure game of balance from right to left for two to three meters long ... Then, the left hand can find a classic blade. put there for the joy of the climber .... The passage is resolved now, with some large step easier (around IV) to the rest, in full plate support.
We just have some gradone a bit 'dirty up to the grove, where we can take off the harness and put the shoes approach ... We are on top of the Rock of Baiedo ... Panettone is a convenient, used to walk half an hour, a little more, but we got a couple of wonderful hours of gameplay vertical ...
The rest of the story is easy to imagine ...
downhill run, laughing, teasing, change clothes and shoes to the car, then leaving for Ballabio, where, in front of a beer, greets you and gives you ... see you soon
Mobile phones have already started to play and work calls ...
Like most classic of the pupils, caught by her parents to skip school, but pleased with this, that no criticism can delete, David and I leave again, happy as a few times ...
No one can ever take away the pleasure that they were two Fairies, Gigli surrounded by a vertical hanging garden in the noisy solitude Valsassinese of the Rock of Baiedo.
soon!
's so that Tuesday, June 8, towards evening, and my partner-mate Davide snacks, we decided to brave the weather forecast not so rosy and groped to take a morning on the vertical ... Obviously we do this in silence, because he knows that if she is blind luck, bad luck sees us well and we feel like nothing in this world ...
The meeting with David and Ballabio at 7, where we arrive punctually. We set off from the usual boy to make breakfast, morning to do anything and then we look at each other: we practically only a half day, we are undecided whether to go up in Tower Fiorelli Grignetta or go do something more "low", the more difficult as spicy, but more "quiet" in terms of access and fall ... In short, the decision is taken: we are heading Baiedo.
The morning promises to be hot, very hot ...
It 'really suitable and we take the luxury of making us a second cup of coffee (and a second visit to the baths of Valsassina, just in case). It's almost 8, we go ...
leave the car in the space to the left of Baiedo Bridge and head toward the base of the wall of the fortress. We are walking to feel a shriek coming by a car passing on the road:
"Where andateeee !!!!!!!!?????"
E 'Mark, Butch Anghileri, who, with hawk's eye, we have recognized from a distance, mnetre oncoming car. and has "awakened" from the torpor of the morning walk. A greeting on the fly and on ... Later I will say that you saw that we were "bigiando" and we had the same air that the kids who are going to do damage in the pantry of the mother ...
We decide to go down a path which comes from the conjunction of two different routes, ie the first four pitches of Elf and the last two shots (plus one for "processing") Loneliness of the street ... The
street is very beautiful, continuous, sustained, always between the IV +, V-and V.
160/170 meters long, uses plates with holes and flexures free from vegetation, with exciting passages in the plate, technicians, plus a pair of athletic movements.
The description sounds very good, David has already covered Solitude, but never Elf path ... Luigi, the Slowrun, however, he advocated the union of these two pathways, indicating that in this way, you get a nice road, steady, sustained, again around the fifth grade. If it says Louis ... David immediately agreed and off we go.
Attacking you arrive in five minutes scarce, except for David, which are needed ten seen that, as usual, forgets something. This time, in addition to having forgotten my camera, he also left the helmet in the car ... Never mind, I remain to unravel the rope and he goes to take the protection ... As it should be ....
At the base, some writing (ugly to say the truth) clearly indicate the attachment point of the Elf away, putting a pretty close "5th", which, translated into degrees Christians, mean V grade. In fact, the three pitches and a half, or four if you prefer, the Elf is a hymn to the fifth grade. Cracked plates, strapiombino, diedrino, fireplace-overhanging dihedral ... Everything is there.
Around us, the green lushness of late spring, a quantity absurd flowers and red lilies, majestic in their orange and haughty beauty. That will be the constant of lilies, along with the verticality and pleasure, our tour today ... We go
Elf to pull off the not-too-long, steady, enjoying the climbing. There are a few nails and some spit, but the ability to place protections "to integration are many and secure. First we go back a plate, beautiful, compact, and then move to take a really nice strapiombino that, unlike what is shown on some reports, you win more than technical and wits of that strength. Then a sort of reverse dihedral formed by a blade and a plate that still relies to a fireplace-diedrino a little 'overhang from which you leave on the last plate, where a sort of path leads to join with the way Solitude. The difficulties are constant between the IV +, V-and a whole lot 'of V. Climbing fabulous holes and handles are placed just where ...
around us at every step, appear, hanging from the rocks, more lilies, a sort of landings of the house, on which a skilful hand, instead of the geraniums, it decided to place these beautiful flowers that was so fond my mother and that from an early age I learned to respect, because they are much more beautiful on our own habitat, which cut into a vase ...
So far we have come some four tirelli, moderate short, about 20-25 meters. The possibilities offered by the wall to stop at will are not few and we used to chat and watch us, below us, Valsassina ...
off again, we lack the final two fabulous shots of Solitude ... These are two superb shots that seem crafted for the lover of the vertical.
The first is a plate that goes up and slightly to the left, then navigate on the right holds a minimum, get up a little, take a pair of vertical blades and back again to the left, towards a large tree planted in the middle of the wall ... It almost seems put there to allow those who break the salt, giving a little 'welcome shade of ...
Above us, the last shot shows only the first part: a plate crossed by a blade, having thus, seems to be the work of the imagination of Hans Dülfer ... But it is just the beginning ...
blade allows a stunning rise and elegant technique, and then ask you to follow to the right, ascending, another pair of small blades, for getting almost the right edge of the plate. Above us, not far from the plateau of the summit ... But this separates us from a very peppery traversatina left ...
The transition is by no means straightforward: you need to get a meter yet, using a handle for a low profile and then, to navigate, it is necessary to rely on the tightness of the shoes. To keep your balance, a small rock protruding a bit 'darker ...
A pure game of balance from right to left for two to three meters long ... Then, the left hand can find a classic blade. put there for the joy of the climber .... The passage is resolved now, with some large step easier (around IV) to the rest, in full plate support.
We just have some gradone a bit 'dirty up to the grove, where we can take off the harness and put the shoes approach ... We are on top of the Rock of Baiedo ... Panettone is a convenient, used to walk half an hour, a little more, but we got a couple of wonderful hours of gameplay vertical ...
The rest of the story is easy to imagine ...
downhill run, laughing, teasing, change clothes and shoes to the car, then leaving for Ballabio, where, in front of a beer, greets you and gives you ... see you soon
Mobile phones have already started to play and work calls ...
Like most classic of the pupils, caught by her parents to skip school, but pleased with this, that no criticism can delete, David and I leave again, happy as a few times ...
No one can ever take away the pleasure that they were two Fairies, Gigli surrounded by a vertical hanging garden in the noisy solitude Valsassinese of the Rock of Baiedo.
soon!
