THE CURSE OF LACE Boga 
dual effort (and two retired)
Pizzo Boga
March 2010
There are mountains that seem to talk or sometimes simply resent you. At least, so you think, even when the mountains, for some reason are unable to explain, they just give you the right warnings, send clear warnings ... The mountains often and I warn you back on earth, more merciful, before that, an excess of superomismo, you can be hurt by itself, unless then blaming some "Killer Mountain" ...
The mountains are nothing but stones, slabs, stones and vegetation, which are of particular value and any significance that goes beyond the physicality of climbing them only when they take over the minds, hearts and "feel" of those who salt, or simply keep them ... What appears to be lifeless and heartless, ruthless, frightening, often becomes something of vital, even family, something that speaks to you, perhaps with its own language, but still capable of being understood ...
E 'in March and, despite my physical condition is still below zero for a variety of reasons, being able (thanks to Daniel) to rise Cassin on the medal, I decide to pretend you do not feel the cold more biting and lack of sleep, exhaustion, extra pounds and, as usual, I agree with David, just go to "stretch my legs "... We opt for Pizzo Boga, a structure "little sister" of the nearby structures of the medal, which serves, inter alia, on good alternative in case of overcrowding.
The approach is short, about twenty minutes from Laorca, and the structure has some way to die "classic", which develop "stepped". This is a series of climbing routes, and never too much never too poorly equipped, low-medium grade, which develop on this, however, nice structure, details of which is to be crossed by several ledges, while interrupts (not just) the continuity of the slopes, on the other provide continuous means of escape simply through the canyon down ... Not wrong, then, talk about pleasant "arrampichescursioni" because, if you want to search for solutions easier, they are just hopping interspersed with rock path connecting ...
Nevertheless, Pizzo Boga has always had (and still exercises) a certain charm on my imagination ... The streets were opened with a logic and a taste "alpine" and the signatures of the early openers are still luxury, worthy to be known ... Tagliabue, Mozzanica, Guerini ... Names that have shaped the history of climbing in these areas and beyond ...
E 'therefore unclear what were the reasons that led me, in this March, to pretend to be trained and, above all, do not have any discomfort in the knee, to visit these structures smaller than the "Low Grigna" Medal and neighbors as I like to call ...
Pizzo Boga welcomed us twice, and twice he showed me the bill ...
The first time we arrived on a cold morning when the temperature there (but mostly me) made it difficult to even breathe ... We go up the short but steep annoying stretch of asphalt that, in a few minutes, it settles on a path leading up to the Pizzo Boga ... The sky is blue and the air "brisk" (ie beak was a cold). We arrive at the base, we see a sign indicated by the R2 Monza, var. right and we decide to go up from there ... David
Party and the first traces, with maximum difficulties IV goes quiet, maybe a little 'IV +, as the inscription says in paint ...
Then, we see that there are different ways to climb ... A door to the left, keeping closer to what we have then guessed to be the original path, while a fine line, well nailed, thence over to us, about twenty meters to the right of the route the original ... David
rooms, quiet. It stops for a moment on that sort of dihedral open, well nails, watches and more. I feel it coming, then, after the usual operations, the typical call: "When you !!!".
part, more or less peaceful. Maybe too quiet ...
Salgo. You're right David, we are in the supported V ... Bit more, I feel to say, but no chance. Vent, I get up, I reach the first and then the second nail, which had not shot. I now awaits a movement a bit 'delicate, but I decided to tackle it in a "physical" chest ... Grab Handle good, spread the liner e. .. Zac! Here comes the dreaded twinge in the knee, the one who had suffered many years ago ...
I make a two plus two ... Here is
started badly, better be careful ... Talking to himself, softly. Calling while David and I say clearly that I felt discomfort in the knee and will be the case of retreat. Pizzo Boga, meanwhile, sent me another message Page: 'Look, you're too loose and does not respect the mountain as you normally would not .. that's okay ... "
do not consider what seem to be only suggestions, and David looks. We throw down a nice down and duplication. I get David to the first, while I make a cigarette (it makes me nervous having to beat a retreat with a similar day of blue sky) ... Tap, then, to me ... It 'a vulgar, simple, banal and even paradigmatic, good for a course, rappelling slightly diagonally ... And yet ... Yet the mountain has brought me a little sum ... Beginning to fall and, still, yes and no will be twenty meters, supported, use only the descent without putting a marchand security ...
blissfully slide and the rope, which was slightly stretched diagonally through a nice spike, jump and shuttle me to the right ... Roll well with the right rope blocking the bucket, but I'm going to slam right in against ... A fabulous thicket of brambles puntutissimi, placed in defense of a great rock ...
Result: full of thorns like Vil Coyote when it falls upon the cactus, as a knock to his right arm against the spuntoncino. To a seven shirt and one for pants ... A second yellow card of the Pizzo Boga: you are not trained, you're overweight, you're wrong because you did not you get well rested and to make it easy on sborone idiot who does not use the marchand security? I understand and, without saying even a small little blasphemy (David is looking and I respect that as few people in the world), I decided to climb down in the last few meters that divide the thorns from the base ...
arrived, I untie it and begin the work of removal of thorns, small and annoying, do not, however, no longer veiled but understandable taken for a ride by David ...
The day ends with a tactical withdrawal from Antonio, the bar plans to start cable Erna. Here we refreshed properly, and David shall take heart ... I have the mood a little 'black, but we're friends and we know how to take ... Pizzo Boga, however, I observed a bit 'wrong ...
*
Fifteen days after this "misadventure", again with no preparation and more tired than before, I decided to go to close the accounts with the way R2 Monza ... Other error. You do not ever part with anger to a mountain ... Although it's a little thing like the Boga Pizzo, the approach must be far ...
arrive at the base, but I always freezing cold, that chills through my body ... I can not warm up, I feel bloated (in fact, I have a swollen belly more than usual). We decide to follow via the "canonical" of R2-Monza and we climb, fairly well, until the beginning of diedrozzo which is one of the characteristics of the first 50-60 meters ...
I'm going to attack the dihedral and the counter part of the belly ... It annoys me everything, I feel the harness that suffocates me, the shoes that make me hurt your feet (and yes I had the Mythos and the Bat) ...
Pizzo Boga watching me mocking ...
The white plate final seems to look as if to say "Well, you see that today on the IV + panting and puffing like a bellows, the second traces? And you think maybe moving here from me, on this beautiful plate with a V?? Fila, idiot, and comes back when you've taken the respect that ... I know I should be easy only for those who come to savor in the right frame of mind ...".
Other rappelling, with the total score of who does not feel good and feel discomfort in the knee, perhaps a harbinger of what would happen then I in Medal of there some time ... But, worse still, still so cold, chills and a sense of fullness in the belly ...
There 's been good for Antonio, who provided refreshments at a duty on a Versasio ...
Before returning, after saluting the great Davidùn, I turn to look away from Pizzo
... Only then, after two weeks when I had refused to do as my usual, that is to listen to items that the mountain has always left me in the form of "feelings", I realized that I had approached the hill without the least respect and, simultaneously, without a real desire to get to know ...
not fall into my royalties go to a mountain thinking that "ultimately it is only a part of IV + V, is fine in the absence of another" No, not by me, if I climb up a mountain, whatever the difficulty is because I want to know, I know the history of the mountain and of those who climb, the aesthetic, the difficulty ... So, approach with respect ... Not in an arrogant and careless ...
E 'for what, now, reading the notes written in March, I will just have to laugh ... There no curse Lace Boga. I've been to automaledirmi was my sufficiency, it was my carelessness to me that way and turn around twice.
The mountain I just sent out the notices and asked me nothing but my usual approach, as with other mountains ... Instead, a human, too human as they are, as usual, is preferable to talk of a curse of Pizzo Boga ... No, the curse is only mine, my extra pounds and overestimation of my ability ...
Luckily the mountains "speak" and - after all - I have not completely forgotten how to listen ...
I'll be back, maybe in the fall, a "regular" with affection and love of knowledge, even my accounts to settle with the streets of Pizzo Boga. This time, however, I will go for Him and only Him, not as a fallback, looking at the history of mountaineering and Beauty and the simple numbers of "degrees" in view of who knows what turned out ...
I know that next time I will give the lace a fabulous pairing of "arrampicherscursioni" between R2 and the Monza-Gary Hemming ... And already there is not much time: it will not be the curse of Pizzo Boga to be debunked, but that enough of my and my supeficialità ... There are no mountains
cursed. Climbers and fans who behave silly, but if they ever meet, and often also in ourselves ...
