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Zucco dell'Angelone
Via Condorpass
(Don A. Butturini, F. Secchi, P . Corti, S. Bolis, 1978)
V + (V-comp.) 220 m
17.02.2010
Via Condorpass
(Don A. Butturini, F. Secchi, P . Corti, S. Bolis, 1978)
V + (V-comp.) 220 m
17.02.2010
Despite the "whims of spring weather (which is nothing but a pleasant periphrasis for not having to write "'I time of shit "), on Saturday I was able to return to get their hands on the rock.
Last week I started to test the knee after ligament fear for about a month ago, the Gathering in Medal PlanetMountain id. Around Val Codera I was also charged with confidence, as well as beauty that filled her eyes.
Friday evening I was preparing mentally to go for a ride Sunday with Velio. It was a bit 'we were trying to organize a simple output, just to put some 'hands on the healthy scale of Lecco ... As I was watching the reports of the possible ways and I was studying the possible difficulties, I hear the phone ring: I get a call from Louis, "You plans for tomorrow? A stroll in Angelone? ".
hard to say no ... A tour with the ever Slowrun not refuse ... It 's a friend, as well as a great climber ...
Weather sends signals simply lousy with Velio are doing their fingers crossed but it looks like Sunday should do bad ... In fact, so then it will be. I decided to go anyway to see what the status of snow and rocks, even if "bottom" of the structures' Angelone.
Even the prospect of a release Sunday, wanting to "test" the seal of the holy Ginocchietti climbing, there is no better opportunity to get in peace with Louis ...
I decide to take this opportunity to fly , I do some 'crying greek, cocker beaten face and the usual playacting typical of those who divides his life with a / a partner or get special permission from my better half and Saturday morning I leave for Barzio.
The appointment is at the bar of the lower station of the plants at eight-twenty ... What can happen? Obviously that did not hear the alarm clock and I realize it's time to get up at seven twenty .... Quick sms to Louis, in the shower style zombie in three minutes, do not take coffee, recovery backpack (ready) and I leave for Barzio ... Omit the record of an ascent of the Milan-Lecco-Barzio to the complaint, but also because of the lack of traffic, at half past eight are at the Bar ..
Few minutes later, in motion, a Luigi extremely confident in time ... He also goes down and finds that it is still chilly ... We decide to make us a cup of coffee in peace and quiet, beautiful comfortable ... The walls are exposed to the southwest and it is better to wait for the benefits of sunlight (at least so we generally know who wrote it).
course, while sipping coffee, come now want to "bother" to his friends: call NOW Luigi Daniele, Crodaioli. These, however, no less cunning, knowing of our intentions, had already decided to make a surprise: Luigi keep the phone, telling him we do not know what nonsense about a possible way in Medal or Antimedale (hurt my leg, back, bla bla bla) ... then appear happy with the face of ferrets in the square. Obviously the second caffettino in company with him is also Xavier (another character that more should be for our passion) and talk there. Rounding out the group shortly thereafter, with a quick round of phone calls, there's also a good "regiù," the Julian Uboldi, two faithful friends, Anthony and Joseph, three people with identity cards that would suggest a all but three children with the disease of the eternal Peter Pan of Croda ...
are seven, like the seven dwarves, and happy as these (missing only were we there to sing "Come, come, let rampegàr"), we leave for the Zucco dell'Angelone, which is reached in 25-30 minutes of talk from the parking lot.
At the base of the fourth spur, five of them (Daniel, Xavier LAR and Trio - Lescano roaring twenties) they decide to pursue a combination that will bring them up Anabasis to make a nice street in the sixth with a little 'of the 6th, while me and Louise as we agreed, we set off for the well-known street Condorpass.
This is a historical street, opened in 1978 by Father Agostino Butturini with the guys from the Condor group and is now a way of "historical" Valsassina, which marked the development of sport climbing on the plates dell'Angelone. I wanted particularly to do so because, beyond the difficulties relatively "low" (from modern point of view of sport climbing), it is still a way aA wilderness character, very well equipped but still longish (220 meters long), and varies logic, athletics and technology at the right place, even a little 'discontinuous. Magnificent rock, with some difficulty walking V + V, with a development of about 220 m.
The way it went really well until the last shot ... But let's order:
the road begins immediately with a nice dihedral V + (or 5b for lovers of scale "French"). Luigi comfortable rooms, enjoy every movement and he's right, quite right ... The rock dell'Angelone worth, really. Arriva parked on top of a slightly overhanging boulder and gives me the ok to go up. For once, I decide to give up my personal ethic of "anything goes" and I try to go in cleanly. The head is, I have a great desire to return id and studying the steps, stopping to observe, intuit the movements e. .. To my surprise, the quasi-dihedral has passed and I have not pulled any postponement. It must be said that I had decided to myself to use the method "psychological" or immediately remove the references to not having the temptation of milking easier ... In
stop, look at the rest of the way, pretty obvious. The second is little more than traces of a connection between the III-IV + and ... We spend in joy, we are in the sun and the day seems to hold ... The third traces
take it so strange: Luigi follows a first spigoletto which then becomes a bit 'duretta ... She calls me and tells me "but that now is not the fourth, fifth and even ..."... "I tell him" .. but at least the sixth? "Luigi shakes his head and thinking about me, it seems appropriate to look the way the original ...
moved a groove, but there we probably left too. We reach the break, but after spending a few meters plate with shitty and dirty slush. Anyways', training ... all
arrive early in the fourth shot, which then turns out to be the fifth with the most beautiful, Angelone shows all its beauty. plaques leaning slightly furrowed blades ... a delicious and crack. Luigi part and I feel literally enjoy ... "Luke, here is fabulous !!!": passes the slit, the plate with Lamone, the dihedral and the other plate adherence. It's up to me ... The gap is technical, absolutely delicious, but has everything to offer ... The transition from the slot to the blade, then, is simply superb. Athletic enough, fast enough to a port diedrino pleasant, above which, for Saltini, it reaches a plate supported in adherence to do ... It 'not that long ago that I kind of grip, and initially I do not trust ... Luigi simply send me a "trusted feet and shoes ... I get up, I continue, I enjoy coming in and parking.
The weather, meanwhile, begins to make tantrums ... We are half way, more or less ... He gets a bit 'and wind while Grigne are now covered, will sail around a mist that promises little good ...
front of us, now, a gap that is closed, followed by a sort of oblique diedrino passing a nice jump, after which you arrive at the base of the famous chimney "stubborn".
The crack is beautiful, technical and athletic enough. The road has motlto V grade, the fabulous ... Climb the crack climbing trying real pleasure, I move that kind of affront and dihedral angle, reassemble the block and I get close to the fireplace on the ground now simple ... I see that Louis has "stretched" the shot, going to stand above the fireplace, not to the base ... Well! I'm leaving and I
suffered not a little break ... I find a pair of supports beautiful anointed are those oblbigatori. The anointed one, however, does not bother beyond a certain point and I get up quite well. But then, I do not agree with having to leave right where blades allow you to go out with great difficulty on IV + excellent appiglioni. Louis laughs and says "come down a bit'"... Ok, "hold the rope" and, still, lazily, I "fall" of a meter to take the blades ... The climb is beautiful, so I do not even get angry when a shitty spuntoncino through me in the ribs on the left with a really excruciating pain ... The next day I'll know that I cracked a rib, but nothing, is part of the game that too ... It happens to wimps. and, as they say in the Veneto region, is a "svejabaùchi (risvegliaallocchi).
The weather, meanwhile, gets to the very ugly and Luigi, attentive, also decided to merge the two shots following ...
With some initial droplets, as those who do not bathe, I find myself back in a couple of small plates and crack at all trivial, with a few things come to V + ...
I am on the last plate, one that relies on the crest, in front of a very difficult step ... Re-reading the report I discovered that I had to take it to the right to remain on the V, but there you are, the weather was deteriorating and was in a hurry, so shot straight to the V + abundant (according to some reports) of the cracked plate .... Above, a jump of quartz veins that appear to ...
I can not pass it, I miss it a bit 'of strength, will be the anxiety of rain imminenete ... TARE decide not to look after a court's subtleties and shooting, getting just enough. At home, calmly, about some of the papers in my possession and I think I would have stayed right on the difficulty of V / V + and not straight down the slot, which opposes difficulties VI full and maybe something more (AriaDiMontagna estimate the 6th, or VI + ... seems to me exaggerated, but it was hard). Then a passaggino equally confusing, but with greater security, puts me on the last jump, after which lead me to simple tiered Louis, stationary. We look
in the face: we have an exposed stretch of path that leads to the final crest, or to healthy quick exit .... Change of shoes and so on rocks, mud and wet leaves ... Once in a sort of harness, and go forward, after we shook hands, we make a two and two together the final crest of III / IV tempts us, considering the amount of water ready to leave ... A smile and down, fast and steep, the path down which many signs, in short (with a beautiful flight of ass on my part) leads to the trail that descends from Bobbio and from there to the parking lot.
Louis, as a good Lecco, even an umbrella is left partially destroyed there and takes it, using the pretext of "the port so the bin waste "... Obviously, the photographer ...
few minutes later we make our entrance, still harnessed to bar the station of departure, where, even before we could order beer, look at the windows of heaven open wide and let it roar a nice hit of rain ...
We drink the first and second beer, cheerful and happy on the one hand, concerned about the other ... The other five are still unseen ... I agree that they are all old Pellacchia routes to every mountain experience, which are good climbers, but ... The worry is always there.
Fortunately, everything eventually went well: our friends came out rather "late" due to water and dropped, wet as chicks, after three ...
Another experience, which speak gaily and laughing, is in his pocket, I had my "baptism dell'Angelone" I traveled a historic route now and I have also avoided the rain ...
Given the time of em this weekend, I can not be more than happy to Louis and send a huge thank you and give everyone a date to a later time, on some mountain, to earn a healthy beer final joy!
stable as possible with good weather ...
Last week I started to test the knee after ligament fear for about a month ago, the Gathering in Medal PlanetMountain id. Around Val Codera I was also charged with confidence, as well as beauty that filled her eyes.
Friday evening I was preparing mentally to go for a ride Sunday with Velio. It was a bit 'we were trying to organize a simple output, just to put some 'hands on the healthy scale of Lecco ... As I was watching the reports of the possible ways and I was studying the possible difficulties, I hear the phone ring: I get a call from Louis, "You plans for tomorrow? A stroll in Angelone? ".
hard to say no ... A tour with the ever Slowrun not refuse ... It 's a friend, as well as a great climber ...
Weather sends signals simply lousy with Velio are doing their fingers crossed but it looks like Sunday should do bad ... In fact, so then it will be. I decided to go anyway to see what the status of snow and rocks, even if "bottom" of the structures' Angelone.
Even the prospect of a release Sunday, wanting to "test" the seal of the holy Ginocchietti climbing, there is no better opportunity to get in peace with Louis ...
I decide to take this opportunity to fly , I do some 'crying greek, cocker beaten face and the usual playacting typical of those who divides his life with a / a partner or get special permission from my better half and Saturday morning I leave for Barzio.
The appointment is at the bar of the lower station of the plants at eight-twenty ... What can happen? Obviously that did not hear the alarm clock and I realize it's time to get up at seven twenty .... Quick sms to Louis, in the shower style zombie in three minutes, do not take coffee, recovery backpack (ready) and I leave for Barzio ... Omit the record of an ascent of the Milan-Lecco-Barzio to the complaint, but also because of the lack of traffic, at half past eight are at the Bar ..
Few minutes later, in motion, a Luigi extremely confident in time ... He also goes down and finds that it is still chilly ... We decide to make us a cup of coffee in peace and quiet, beautiful comfortable ... The walls are exposed to the southwest and it is better to wait for the benefits of sunlight (at least so we generally know who wrote it).
course, while sipping coffee, come now want to "bother" to his friends: call NOW Luigi Daniele, Crodaioli. These, however, no less cunning, knowing of our intentions, had already decided to make a surprise: Luigi keep the phone, telling him we do not know what nonsense about a possible way in Medal or Antimedale (hurt my leg, back, bla bla bla) ... then appear happy with the face of ferrets in the square. Obviously the second caffettino in company with him is also Xavier (another character that more should be for our passion) and talk there. Rounding out the group shortly thereafter, with a quick round of phone calls, there's also a good "regiù," the Julian Uboldi, two faithful friends, Anthony and Joseph, three people with identity cards that would suggest a all but three children with the disease of the eternal Peter Pan of Croda ...
are seven, like the seven dwarves, and happy as these (missing only were we there to sing "Come, come, let rampegàr"), we leave for the Zucco dell'Angelone, which is reached in 25-30 minutes of talk from the parking lot.
At the base of the fourth spur, five of them (Daniel, Xavier LAR and Trio - Lescano roaring twenties) they decide to pursue a combination that will bring them up Anabasis to make a nice street in the sixth with a little 'of the 6th, while me and Louise as we agreed, we set off for the well-known street Condorpass.
This is a historical street, opened in 1978 by Father Agostino Butturini with the guys from the Condor group and is now a way of "historical" Valsassina, which marked the development of sport climbing on the plates dell'Angelone. I wanted particularly to do so because, beyond the difficulties relatively "low" (from modern point of view of sport climbing), it is still a way aA wilderness character, very well equipped but still longish (220 meters long), and varies logic, athletics and technology at the right place, even a little 'discontinuous. Magnificent rock, with some difficulty walking V + V, with a development of about 220 m.
The way it went really well until the last shot ... But let's order:
the road begins immediately with a nice dihedral V + (or 5b for lovers of scale "French"). Luigi comfortable rooms, enjoy every movement and he's right, quite right ... The rock dell'Angelone worth, really. Arriva parked on top of a slightly overhanging boulder and gives me the ok to go up. For once, I decide to give up my personal ethic of "anything goes" and I try to go in cleanly. The head is, I have a great desire to return id and studying the steps, stopping to observe, intuit the movements e. .. To my surprise, the quasi-dihedral has passed and I have not pulled any postponement. It must be said that I had decided to myself to use the method "psychological" or immediately remove the references to not having the temptation of milking easier ... In
stop, look at the rest of the way, pretty obvious. The second is little more than traces of a connection between the III-IV + and ... We spend in joy, we are in the sun and the day seems to hold ... The third traces
take it so strange: Luigi follows a first spigoletto which then becomes a bit 'duretta ... She calls me and tells me "but that now is not the fourth, fifth and even ..."... "I tell him" .. but at least the sixth? "Luigi shakes his head and thinking about me, it seems appropriate to look the way the original ...
moved a groove, but there we probably left too. We reach the break, but after spending a few meters plate with shitty and dirty slush. Anyways', training ... all
arrive early in the fourth shot, which then turns out to be the fifth with the most beautiful, Angelone shows all its beauty. plaques leaning slightly furrowed blades ... a delicious and crack. Luigi part and I feel literally enjoy ... "Luke, here is fabulous !!!": passes the slit, the plate with Lamone, the dihedral and the other plate adherence. It's up to me ... The gap is technical, absolutely delicious, but has everything to offer ... The transition from the slot to the blade, then, is simply superb. Athletic enough, fast enough to a port diedrino pleasant, above which, for Saltini, it reaches a plate supported in adherence to do ... It 'not that long ago that I kind of grip, and initially I do not trust ... Luigi simply send me a "trusted feet and shoes ... I get up, I continue, I enjoy coming in and parking.
The weather, meanwhile, begins to make tantrums ... We are half way, more or less ... He gets a bit 'and wind while Grigne are now covered, will sail around a mist that promises little good ...
front of us, now, a gap that is closed, followed by a sort of oblique diedrino passing a nice jump, after which you arrive at the base of the famous chimney "stubborn".
The crack is beautiful, technical and athletic enough. The road has motlto V grade, the fabulous ... Climb the crack climbing trying real pleasure, I move that kind of affront and dihedral angle, reassemble the block and I get close to the fireplace on the ground now simple ... I see that Louis has "stretched" the shot, going to stand above the fireplace, not to the base ... Well! I'm leaving and I
suffered not a little break ... I find a pair of supports beautiful anointed are those oblbigatori. The anointed one, however, does not bother beyond a certain point and I get up quite well. But then, I do not agree with having to leave right where blades allow you to go out with great difficulty on IV + excellent appiglioni. Louis laughs and says "come down a bit'"... Ok, "hold the rope" and, still, lazily, I "fall" of a meter to take the blades ... The climb is beautiful, so I do not even get angry when a shitty spuntoncino through me in the ribs on the left with a really excruciating pain ... The next day I'll know that I cracked a rib, but nothing, is part of the game that too ... It happens to wimps. and, as they say in the Veneto region, is a "svejabaùchi (risvegliaallocchi).
The weather, meanwhile, gets to the very ugly and Luigi, attentive, also decided to merge the two shots following ...
With some initial droplets, as those who do not bathe, I find myself back in a couple of small plates and crack at all trivial, with a few things come to V + ...
I am on the last plate, one that relies on the crest, in front of a very difficult step ... Re-reading the report I discovered that I had to take it to the right to remain on the V, but there you are, the weather was deteriorating and was in a hurry, so shot straight to the V + abundant (according to some reports) of the cracked plate .... Above, a jump of quartz veins that appear to ...
I can not pass it, I miss it a bit 'of strength, will be the anxiety of rain imminenete ... TARE decide not to look after a court's subtleties and shooting, getting just enough. At home, calmly, about some of the papers in my possession and I think I would have stayed right on the difficulty of V / V + and not straight down the slot, which opposes difficulties VI full and maybe something more (AriaDiMontagna estimate the 6th, or VI + ... seems to me exaggerated, but it was hard). Then a passaggino equally confusing, but with greater security, puts me on the last jump, after which lead me to simple tiered Louis, stationary. We look
in the face: we have an exposed stretch of path that leads to the final crest, or to healthy quick exit .... Change of shoes and so on rocks, mud and wet leaves ... Once in a sort of harness, and go forward, after we shook hands, we make a two and two together the final crest of III / IV tempts us, considering the amount of water ready to leave ... A smile and down, fast and steep, the path down which many signs, in short (with a beautiful flight of ass on my part) leads to the trail that descends from Bobbio and from there to the parking lot.
Louis, as a good Lecco, even an umbrella is left partially destroyed there and takes it, using the pretext of "the port so the bin waste "... Obviously, the photographer ...
few minutes later we make our entrance, still harnessed to bar the station of departure, where, even before we could order beer, look at the windows of heaven open wide and let it roar a nice hit of rain ...
We drink the first and second beer, cheerful and happy on the one hand, concerned about the other ... The other five are still unseen ... I agree that they are all old Pellacchia routes to every mountain experience, which are good climbers, but ... The worry is always there.
Fortunately, everything eventually went well: our friends came out rather "late" due to water and dropped, wet as chicks, after three ...
Another experience, which speak gaily and laughing, is in his pocket, I had my "baptism dell'Angelone" I traveled a historic route now and I have also avoided the rain ...
Given the time of em this weekend, I can not be more than happy to Louis and send a huge thank you and give everyone a date to a later time, on some mountain, to earn a healthy beer final joy!
stable as possible with good weather ...
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