Sunday, February 28, 2010

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SIMPLICITY 'THE GREAT: Beat Kammerlander

(pictured from left. Sergio Longoni, Fabio Palma, and the old Beat Kammerlander Arterio Lupin)


How to combine passion and profession:
encounter with Beat Kammerlander Sirtori , February 18, 2010


One of the greatest aspirations of - I think - anyone would be able to combine, at least in part, passion and profession. Often this is only a utopia, far from reality and, necessarily, we are content to give our best to work to be able to enjoy free time to devote to their passion with a clear conscience. This, of course, 'sti times, it would be a lot, given the moonlight that badly affect the world of work ... But it is another story ..

One of the advantages of those who make the translator and interpreter is undoubtedly that of having to do with worlds often different from each other, expanding their range of knowledge, especially from the standpoint of what I call "the varied humanity" .

Occasionally - not too often, but all in all, not too often-I happen to work in areas more or less related to the field of my passion ...

One of these fortunate cases - to be lucky every point of view - took place Thursday, February 18, 2010. A simply delightful evening at the Bevera Sirtori, at the main store in the chain of Sports Specialist, or of Longoni. Evening beautifully organized by Fabio Palma, writer-climber, master of ceremonies for the occasion, as well as a friend of Kammerlander, and concluded with the landlord, Sergio Longoni. Present many mountaineers and mountain lovers not only of Lecco, but in general, a large part of Lombardy, in spite of the time not just lenient. Among others, I had the opportunity to meet a figure '8 years and knew him only to read the pages of the newly formed "Alp" The Baller, aka Marco Ballerini, the first Italian, I believe, to pass an eighth, at the time of the boom in sport climbing in Italy ...

I had the honor - I want to emphasize - to act as interpreter for a mythical figure of mountaineering and climbing, Beat Kammerlander. I do not think the case to be to remember who is the legendary Beat ... Fifty years, yet the viability of a boy. And a little boy, of those once, humility and simplicity with which, happily, presented before the public for special occasions, photos and images of his climbing life.

With extreme simplicity has been able to tell how he came, almost by accident, climbing, but then continue to practice, making way of life and even trade, to become the living legend is now. Fifty years, yet still quiet in being able to walk in "clean climbing" the way Prinzip Hoffnung, which he opened, very little repeated (X + UIAA scale). Just to be clear, he took the luxury of thinking and a way to make a little ripetizone already repeated with the use of bolts, using only the movable (the nuts that probably would not have taken the flight of a cat, let alone a person ... When you say "psychological protection "...)... How

was not enough, always calm and smiling, he showed pictures an ascent of mixed assessed M10 ... Not to speak of ascents in the U.S. and more ... The hall was packed Sports Specialist, and yet, before the images (Beat is also an excellent photographer) and the words of Kammerlander, never too much, never too little, did not feel a fly, if not some half-sigh of wonder and disbelief.

Yet, with extreme humility, though it is aware of the significance that his figure has for mountaineering and climbing, the Beat has taken to quoting and emphasize value and businesses of friends and acquaintances with whom and which it climbs extreme respect, beginning with Peter Dal Pra '.

in a professional manner, but with courtesy absolutely no hypocrisy, nor any way false cuts, Beat did not recoil even for a moment to questions, requests for photos and autographs or to just chat. Quietly, even after the official part, including a glass of wine and some tasting the excellent buffet, Beat continued to respond to questions, toasting and laughing with everyone, be they a member of the Lecco Spiders or just a keen walker. He even had to apologize to me when, in response to someone, would ask me to support the glass for a moment and translate the answers ...

During the slide show, he never failed to emphasize what he was beaten showing. Always ready to laugh and joke, it's certainly a person who inspires so much respect and esteem, but no awe: on the contrary, is a person who inspires immediate sympathy goes fast enough confidence in and chat with pleasure. If, of course, I can not mention the various discourses arose on a personal level, which will remain ours, I should, however, to emphasize a aneddotino ... During the slide show on the slope of Prinzip Hoffnung, at some point could be seen as using ascended holds good for up to the end of the last phalanx of two fingers ... Something monstrous at the very thought ... Beat called them "holds" and then "cleats for the fingers" ... Closed microphone while the projection was wrong, turns and asks: "Why you had to laugh as he translated?". And I, "See, you call them holds, but I was willing to translate them with" fly droppings ", they were so small." The Kammerlander, sly, first laughs and then, still "well, yes, indeed ... let's say we just do a poo fly might have been safer ..." And down to laugh, quiet, aware of what he had done so great in its simplicity but do not take themselves too seriously and always able to get a few laughs.

Finally, I must add something that I greatly appreciated: Beat Kammerlander is one that absolutely does not disdain good wine, good food and a healthy cigarette every now and then ...

At least I can say this can compete with Kammerlander!

The evening then took a worthy epilogue "private" with a dinner late in Barzanò, hosted by Sergio Longoni, in addition to the Beat and his faithful companion Michl, was attended by Fabio Palma, Marco, and a pair Anghileri other friendly collaborators Longoni. A fine evening of chatter and laughter as well as the mountain, during which the struggle between those who swallow more liquid spirits between Italians and Austrians finished in substantially equal ...

a memorable and fun ...

if it was always possible think of work only in these terms ...

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LANDSCAPES, NATURE AND ADVANCES IN THE SPRING OF MONTE BARRO


Barro
from Galbally (furnace)
Saturday, February 27, 2010

very lazy day ...
started late, very late, at 10 am.
Generally, after such admissions would be natural to look for excuses. I will not ...
simply having had a full week of work, with my boyfriend, decides to take convenient.

The original idea was to get up and go for a walk ... But do not rush.

And there was no hurry.

Wake up, breakfast, ablutions morning ...
What do we do? Where are we going?

There is still plenty of snow around the house and the CEO Arterio, holder of 51% of decision-making, that is above my better half, just does not like going to tread the snow ... But by dint go with the artery, is now well arterizzata her ...

"Luke, are at least two years who say we go to see Barro ... We've been everywhere, have you brought in a thousand places but never there ..."

In fact, Barro had long been one of the destinations included in the carnet of future trips ... A set of reasons, or maybe just chance, coincidence, has meant that it was the "mountain" more near where we live had been the one that still had never trod.

In recent days, moreover, I had read a story more than enthusiastic about the beauty of this hill a little more than three thousand feet high. In particular, and I had awakened the curiosity of his friends on the report MontagnaForum ...

Well, had come the right day.

We spend almost free (except for a couple of Madonna on my part) and Monza roadworks. Can we take the highway that cuts through the Brianza and rather quickly ... we are leaving for Galbally My partner does not feel like doing too much difference, four months does not walk in the mountains ... Then we climb up to furnaces, where, shortly after a restaurant "interesting", we find a great parking.

On the right, a nice uphill path with adequate trail ... We climb to the Hermitage, already visible above us. Shortly after departure, we welcome some primroses and crocuses some ... A first taste of spring looming, and I very much hope will come soon ...
I know, I know ... The lovers of winter sports mandranno me to that country. But everyone is free to hope what he wants. I know I got new snowshoes and that I should "baptize", or rather, 'launch them "... But now I feel like id spring, light clothing and a healthy warm.

The views become ever wider as you climb, offering stunning views on lakes of the Brianza, is my love of the Larian Triangle and the course of the Adda ...

soon come to the Hermitage, already full of people. Small break ... Very little ... Too many people! A group of guys (maybe scout, perhaps an oratory in motion), with guitars in tow. I am thinking back to my teenage mind, but I can not enjoy it that much ... It will age, but I can not appreciate a young boy in the flesh at the same time that violent guitar and a song of Baptists ...

continue soon, taking the "Botanical Trail", absolutely delicious. Taking fine, after a short but steep climb, we deposited the saddle of boulders, where I can lose mega Sentierone and "cut" up to twenty meters and then having to descend cimotto many rocks along ... My partner expresses some doubts about my sanity and gives me a pretty good idea of \u200b\u200bwhat I likely would have happened if only she could lay hands on him ...

defuse the situation (if you still speak of "cut" I'll cut what you destined for military service, years ago), ripartimao uphill along a path euphemistically deifnito "for experienced hikers." In fact, it is a simple and beautiful path in some places a bit 'slippery and as careful where you put your feet ...

In short we come to the summit cross e. .. Blaze panoramas, 360 degree, from the plains to the Alps in the distance we recognize the Monviso and other mountains of the Piedmont to the Gran Paradiso ... Then the Cornizzolo, the Rai, the Horns of Canzo, in a very attractive prospect, the Moregalo, and then again on the lake, the mountains of the Valtellina whitewashed, the Grigne, Pizzo Tre Signori, the two hands, the Resegone, the crest dell'Ocone to Monte Marenzo and even the course of the Adda, Montevecchia, the plain and in the end, the Apennine Mountains ... Temperature very mild, milky and cloudy sky just ..

Together, a pair of hikers passing greeting and a bird, perhaps a partridge or something that is not afraid to take their allowance of snack crumbs .... We

full of views and then we go down, watching other primroses and crocuses ...

arrive soon to the Hermitage, where settle some pressing needs (a few sandwiches) and then down, by Proclamation, to see the Visitor Center and Museum ...

From here, about twenty minutes chaicchierate us to quickly find the car, happy.

We feel that perhaps the spring is really coming, at least at low altitude ...

We feel that we made the right choice, the appropriate itinerary.

Simply put, we feel good ... And we will return soon. Maybe you can tour "to the ridge ...

A really nice way to take advantage of an afternoon free ...

The rest is the usual story of a return to Milan ... But this time more readily than usual: I am invited to dinner by the mother-in-law and my belly is made hut "...

fitting conclusion to a really nice day, even a little bit lazy!

Until next time, Monte Barro, back soon.



Monday, February 22, 2010

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HORNS Medal, CASSIN STREET: THE REALIZATION OF A DREAM


Corna Medal (1029)
Via Cassin-Dell'Oro
360 M, V, V + / VI-/A0
Sunday, February 21, 2010


climbing routes exist, or if you prefer "classic", which, for each zone, are the "classical" par excellence ...
Vie importance that the scope of which goes far beyond simple reports, and similar levels of difficulty.
Streets that are just "history."

For the Lombardy Alps, which marked the milestone with a much earlier than many other areas where hikers and climbers were active (at that time, rock climbers), that point is certainly open to the street in the '30s by Riccardo Cassin and Mario Dall'Ora "Boga".
A street of 360 meters of development that addresses the problem of the south-east wall of the Horns of Medal. following a logical line of dihedrals, cracks, chips. Daring for its time, won after a "tough fight in the wall," complete with a campfire, was celebrated by the people of Lecco as perhaps today's victory is celebrated only in the National Football World Cup.

360 meters away physics, with many traits laborious, made even more annoying by the greasy rock by countless repetitions ... Yet still there, "popular," and traveled to capacity. Perhaps the most traveled road to rock Lombard Alps.

One way that can not fail in the book of those who want to know the great classics, despite the low altitude of the medal, just above 1000 feet ... One of those mountains (because it is still a mountain) called "bollards" from "Western", but capable of attracting and seducing lovers and mountain climbing.

Sunday, February 21 Domains of the Year in 2010, finally, after so long that I kept it in sight, though often in disbelief over my ability, thanks to my friend Daniel, Crodaioli of PlanetMountain, with a monstrous effort, squeezing energy and at various points using the "milking unbiased", I managed to climb this classic (applause, standing ovation and public into a frenzy .... Ok, ok, me and calm back to us ...) For

me, this ascent was the culmination of a dream which began three years ago or so, when he returned to the mountain after a few years away, yet I did not think (but I really wanted) to return to get their hands on the rock at some level ... Arrived in Lombardy, manic bibliophile that I am, one of the first steps was to purchase the material found on these mountains ... Reading and rereading Grigne and their satellites, I could not dwell on the medal, the mountain in the 80s for me was just one of the peaks of low-level notes for the activity of Lecco climbers, climbing mountains and at the same excellence can to offer the tranquility of the cliff and the so-called alpine experience ... Riccardo Cassin where a wall with the Boga had written a page memorable in the history of climbing, bringing attention to the walls "at low altitude, passing with a great attitude on the mountain wall, complete with a campfire ...
Paper in hand, I was reading the report, merciless on the degree ... "V + / A0" and, in my heart, I kept saying "I could go back fifteen years ... I could go climbing on the fifth, maybe I could put in my pocket this way the two great ...". But
not believe it, it seemed too distant possibility.

A year ago, approximately, while coming down from a walk at the end of winter in San Martino, Lecco above, while I was approaching the car, I feel a peremptory voice: "You are Arterio." It was Daniel, alias Crodaioli, which, as a great physiognomist what is seen from the photos on my photo albums I had recognized ... Laughter customary, then straight down to Lecco for a beer ... Talk about common passions and then, I remember perfectly the famous phrase, which soon becomes a torment, "But still you have not been on the Cassin You can not ..."
Yet, at first, seemed like a speed too ...

While friendship with Crodaioli was steadily gaining the trust also David, in his own way, I pointed out that, in short, not yet on the Cassin was really strange ...

few months later, also became friends with Louis Slowrun and even then If the sentence does not change ... "You did not make the Cassin? Must provide!"

Yet to me it seemed so far away the possibility ...

Spring is coming ... Thanks to the aforementioned friends I start to rise with increasing confidence, but I still seemed far Cassin ...

Summer, autumn arrives and the "grade" increases ... Here comes a nice day "in Gathering Medal and get ready to climb, finally, the Cassin ... A virus, violent and annoying, but I'm struck in the morning ... I try to hold on, get to see up close the connection ... But the virus is stronger. I have to get off, give up the Cassin and, worse still, the group dinner ...

Daniel David and Louise try to cheer him up ... With David we take some satisfaction, with Daniel and Luigi as well. Between November and December can Salier Mir on the edge and then on the Bottom in Antimedale ... I begin to feel that the time approaches ...

But to put the spanner in the works come from the cold and rain. E 'winter, it snows a lot, well it rains ... They spend three months of inactivity, and then, finally, after another attack of influenza and recrudescence of work, get a good time.

a mountain, as in life, it is. Opportunities should be grabbed on the fly and do not give up ...

I see the weather for Sunday, February 21 should be good. I feel now, and Louis Daniel (David Sunday is commanded a lifetime of service). Luigi niche, he is "red" with permessini Sunday ... I get a permission from my better half full and so does the Crodaioli ...

finally arrived on the Sunday fair, which starts in the best ways to find Jailbird at 8:00 for coffee, croissants, pee and poo. Appointment, unexpected, also come to bring greetings Marco Anghileri, Bacchus', who, unable to go to climb due to elbow problems, is gone at night to take a ride in Moregallo ...

The rest is a "chronicle of a joy announced," for which there is no need to tell anything on a technical climb straconosciuta and well-known ... Certainly not for me to give an opinion that is nothing more than the mere opinion and personal taste or not to climb on a similar route. To me, actually, loved it ... Classical, logicissima, very athletic. As for degrees, I think it correct to call it a V with a few more passaggetti peppered (more for the anointed one for the real difficulties), these widely resettable "high percentage of milking."

For what reason I call this route in terms so positive and enthusiastic? It 's all a matter of "approach" on the street. If one is looking for a great classic rock fabulous, rock without furniture, with up grades and "elegance", I think we have not.
It 's a way "to Cassin, very physical, athletic ... From the fourth up (and there's a lot) is athletic, has the fourth-down grass and stones are also not rare furniture.
For me, I walk the streets on a mental rather than sport, is and remains a nice Vione, full of history ...
It is particularly exposed, but ... If anyone interested in the streets full of history and anecdotes, physical, athletic, recalling the days of the pioneers ... Well, the Cassin is a must. As I have pointed out my friends ... A moral obligation.

artery and back to the "classic" (read: milking and zero wild), the best numbers occurred in the first dihedral., reached after two tirelli "easy", with a couple of passaggetti that foreshadowed the anointed one of the steps waiting for us. Clears the facts respecting the sacred Crodaioli referrals, of course ... There are a couple of vintage chains (a sort of break or something like that) just right to put its measure Arterio ...
test up "as it should be" number one ... Slide ... Try number two .. Slide on .. At this point, grab the chain and on ... The first step in AU (Climbing sull'Unto) is solved.

followed by a couple of shots of which we speak quite low, for a series of corners, Saltini plates, very continuous and athletic, back and forth between IV +, V-, with several steps of V and, in particular, a dihedral (the second dihedral) really hard and greasy, a healthy V +, which, incredibly, I "drink" godendomelo ... Be seen from there the famous "key step" ...

Step Root: Crodaioli I had explained the movement ... The observe, memorize, but apparently not too much. It's up to me ... Obviously I stubborn and do not step ... Rest hung. Try again, I was too low and I Ghiso arms. Rest hung for a while '. I try to get angry and decide to put a tape in to place a Prusik mo 'bracket ... But me and wrap me mad at myself ... Meanwhile, the Crodaioli I pulled two screaming not to be repeated ... Struck to the heart of pride, I decided to try and find the right support, I can get up to move and finally do as he says ... Lunging right, I take a good grip, get in and then I restore ... I tell mona eighteen times by myself and then I go back to take the idiot from Crodaioli ...

followed by two more shots, still quite involved, that must carry the "Bivouac Cassin" in beam. Again we are in constant trouble id + IV and a few easily measurable point of the V-. The exhibition becomes greater and the fatigue is felt, especially for those out of practice. The

Traverso, instead, to laugh: the Crodaioli, to meet me, does not refer to nothing. It combines the two shots to break up over the transom. Very good, because in case of fall, I would not "surge" ... But bad for understanding the development of cross ... I found myself doing a two to three meters using the handles (not evil, sin under it all slip) and then stop, seeing the rope that led up ... I tried to go up and Crodaioli, after letting me go, I said that I had to get off and cross again ... A situation that was repeated several times, not without a grin from the Crodaioli ... All in all, fun and safe ... Small declined and then again through ... Traverso, climb, and dropped back through ... In short, movements worthy of a climbing wall on the Cassin ...

But the references in Crodaioli were sacred and not pulled ... For the rest, however, all I found was good for traction ...

A lot of points, however, for which I had prepared myself mentally to clear, I do not know with whom congiunzone astral, I managed to pass only attacking the rock ... Maybe because I was too lazy to clear ...

enjoyed a lot and I care a damn of redpoint ...

to save face I can always claim to have increased from the second classical technique ... Sounds good, is expressed in Bell'Italia. even if it means that they are always risen from foo (which has fun and does not care).

Tragic, in conclusion, the last shot ... Again the Crodaioli "unifies" the shots, making one last shot sixty feet dry. I, now, was the fruit with the police, I dreamed of the beer, however, was the Crodaioli claiming loudly ... Sixty meters of the third and fourth, that they seemed like an eternity ... But in the end, the output has approached and welcomed us ...

good laugh, shake hands, top cigarette for me and immediately telephoned to find ourselves by Luigi Antonio to celebrate the Cassin as it should ...

Tired, but happy as a baby.
Exhausted, but joyful to be able to "get out" ... I squeezed the energy ... And I came out happy, happy, happy as a child, happy as a clam ... I managed to get a better physical satisfaction, but even greater in terms of knowledge ... Of that eternal, unquenchable thirst for knowledge, see, feel and touch that afflicts those who love the mountains ...

A dream has come true.
Thank God, many others are here, ready to remain so or to come true ...

Dreams of which, between jokes and jokes, abbimao discussed at large, to the Bar of Antonio, to the cable car to Erna, where we reached, after the descent, the Luigino Slowrun, ready to celebrate the baptism took place at the old Arterio Cassin ... Because, unfortunately, including Daniel, Louis and David also ... Casserole dish, the older I am ...

A day to frame, an endless joy to me ... Joy, then, was prolonged in the Tales of Forum PlanetMountain, where there have been jokes and jokes and where, with the complicity of Louis and Daniel, did this little parody of some passages of The Betrothed ...

Parody climbing that, in our view, would do good Manzoni happy, if only they could read it and that I enclose, in chisura post as an additional thank you to Daniel, Louis and David, my mentors and fellow climber, which binds me, besides the clear estimate, a friendship that is growing strong, as you know who is using up in the mountains. Bind to the same string is more than a gesture of insurance ... Provides confidence in the partner, putting their safety in his hands and trust him. In my "Good" Manzoni, again, a heartfelt thanks.

"I PROMISE CASSINI"

(loosely based on the Alessandro Manzoni)

"It was not long ago when, timid and uncertain, Don Arterio, descending the stairs from the Chapel of Sacred Heart back to Rancio, kept repeating "Grigne and Medal ... Carneades, who was this man ?"...
And as he tried to pass unnoticed among the many tourists intent on a healthy walk, was stopped by two good, one and a Crodaioli Franco, who, regardless of his repeated almost as a broken record, the phrase "non sum dignus, carried him into a bar ... Here he was reminded of the existence of Medale ... He was told loud and clear that" this rise must one do ".
Time passed, changed conditions, changed a lot. The words of two good ones were added to a Don Rodrigo, who, despite having lost the thick hair of his youth, he was back in the old pomp and splendor mountain ...
Yet, at the dusk of autumn, the Plague hit Fr Arterio at a meeting of good, Nameless and other characters ... Arterio Don had to give up the base of the climb to do s'avea ... A good
Renzo Davidùn Tramaglino Merate, longtime friend of Don Arterio, had reported on the right path of awareness, while Bravo and Luigi Griso Crodaioli Corsalenta continued their work of preparing the old Don ...

And finally, a year later, the marriage between the desire to be able to pick up and the dream could take place.

The Bravo Swirl, with the greatest joy of a don Arterio renewed and determined, despite three months of "down" because health and work, he succeeded to bring joy to the aforementioned Don ... The which, once reached the top of his travels in the footsteps of St. Richard and St. Mario, wrote the following poem, which it says is a snippet:

"A source from the waters and mountains soon elevated to the sky , unequal peaks known to those who have gone up and loved and impressed upon his mind ... ... soon. How to light up those of you born-again for a while it has gone away "

next time and thanks to Daniel Griso curly the way, to Luigi Bravo Corsalenta, for moral support, as well as the Bravo Bacc ', guardian of the soul of Grignetta that has materialized before departure for a coffee with friends and cheer for a certain Don Arterio yes but fearful ...


Saturday, February 20, 2010

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BEFORE 2010: THE SAN MARTINO Crocioni


Crocione of San Martino
February 7, 2010 First release of the year



2010, to be honest, is not it just started with the best wishes ...
Immediately after the end of the holiday season is the offensive game of all forms of influenza known and unknown ... Add to this that the work had - Fortunately in this case - a resurgence, however, blessed ... It goes without saying that the month of January passed without leaving space for the mountains, except for a ride in the car, as two elderly intabarrati semimoribondi, made with my partner to enjoy the pleasures of Zambla Alta.

But as goes the old adage, it can not rain forever. Also to stay on clichés, returns to the calm after the rain ... Ok, ok, I do not get to "there are more half-seasons", I stop immediately with the clichés, I promise ....

In early February, however, I find myself to be fattened like a pig to be bagged, flabby and out of practice as few times in recent years. Luck would have it, for the weekend, there seems to be a window of time, if not good, at least decent. As often happens, thanks to the usual system of "forum" and, most importantly, the sms, I can contact the excellent Richard Ric54, Valle d'Aosta transplanted between Brescia and Bergamo, which he heard the call of the mountain, accept without resistance no to my proposal, not at all indecent.

Originally, the proposal was addressed to my beloved Moregallo. Richard expressed a desire to go for the strike in the Horn Rat. I do not particularly like (or rather, not at all), but I'm happy to tour with Richard and, if you want to know something that has not yet seen, I do an excellent grade. His is a great company ...

There you have to imagine: I m tall and ca ** o (but do not laugh: Sconsolata as he says, you see only one meter ...); him, at least one and ninety, if not more, in proportion to the level Muscle ... Practices seem to church and bell tower.

The die is cast in the morning, I leave for Valmadrera ... Fog mica to laugh and still lots of snow on the ground beside the road ... Good start ...

Arrive Valmadrera, where I made an appointment to the good Ric "to the parking lot of the cemetery." Now, no offense, is not exactly a metropolis that is Valmadrera. The fact remains that this busy town of Lecco, by ancient origins, has a cemetery id "new" and a "historic".

Obviously I'm in the "new" and Richard to the "old".

rapid exchange of phone calls and insults, and so taken for a ride downtown. To reach agreement, the breakfast in the morning. Then, while the light allows us to look around, we see that from 300 meters up in the snow is still a long ... And hard ...

renounce (to my helmet - but not too much - satisfaction) to the railway in the Horn Rat and, at my suggestion, we head towards Lecco. For what reason we have not done a ride on the snow Moregallo? Because someone had left it at home crampons ... And that someone, this time, it was not me!
Lecco
A second colazioncina with brioche "at a good level" and then, since the arrival of the sun had dispelled the mist and left room for a day that promised well, given the lack of crampons, we opt for a healthy spin to the Medal. Richard knows him only by reputation and willingly accepts to go and learn.

To go to park leads us to Laorca, as the parking lot of Rancho is packed like an egg. Even to get to the parking lot, the first adventure ... The road is still pretty icy and the wheels slip so cryptic ...

In one way or another, however, we can park and prepare for the walk.

We follow the path that passes near the cemetery Laorca (lovely for the position, seems tailor-made to house relics of lovers of the mountain), it soon settles former Refuge Medal, by the same name where we are welcomed with great mountain views.

decides to show the base of the walls and the start of the ferrata Alpini the medal, which still has no route. Then, take the path, well marked and very popular, which passes behind the ramparts, the attacks of climbing routes to the Medal and, finally, we arrive at the Pillar, Irene, where part of the strike.

Richard is almost speechless by the beauty of the place ... I do not wonder! This "curbstone" a hundred feet higher than the canonical "thousand", looks like a real mountain. And, sorry if I'm biased, but the Medal mountain it is! Point.

take the path leading up to the chapel, and left the fog that still afflict Lecco create a sensational game: The horrid construction of the shopping center of Lecco, repudiated by the same floor, surrounded by the mist is transformed into a haunted castle, that seems to arise, as in the best narratives of ancient Scottish castles in medieval times, the fog and mists of the Highlands ...

the road takes us to the chapel early deposits ... Well, as soon ... Accomplices a couple of stops hydraulic "down the path, we can" get lost "in the sense that, climbing, Riccardo follow the path that cuts just before the Chapel to the Medal ... Not bad, a couple of screams and four outlets around the duo reunite the church-bell.

the chapel, four ciacole with a climber in the area, in the mood to talk, two good photos to Ric that barely manages to enter the chapel and then on along the path Silvia, to go and the views from Guist Crocione .. .

The forced stay of nearly three months ago and feel, despite the low altitude, few meters to puff like a bellows. Richard is watching me almost in disbelief, well accustomed to other artery ... But, snorting it or not, come with a lot of attention, the last meters before Crocione. Here begins to appear a little 'ice vivo. Needless to dwell on the fact that the spikes might have been useful ... There is no point. We come, not without attention to Crocione, where cabbage that we enjoy the view ... A nice blast of fog makes us feel in the middle of the Po Valley, but, fortunately, does not last long.

We sit on the top, drink a little bit and then, calmly, waiting for the fog there a little gift 'of landscape, which takes place on time. The time, however, is the right one ... We are approaching lunchtime ... And this type of calls Richard and I are particularly sensitive. From

Crocione we bring to the collar and take the ridge trail that descends to the Refuge's Square. As before, we must be very attention to the snow and small ice sheets almost ... We start teasing each other .... I had not finished to magnify the advantage of being brevilineo, the fact that it has to be small the lower center of gravity and better controls of any slipping, that ... Tac! I take a sheet of ice, the legs go up in the face e. .. Bam! The back reclines so awkward and a bit 'violent to the ground, in perfect Fantozzi.

What follows can not bring it back on the blog without blushing. Never mind that, probably, I also spouts a complaint of obscene and blasphemous phrases (the veneticità makes itself felt in very similar cases).

Leaving on a second fall (and subsequent series of Venetian beads), we arrive at Piazza Refuge, which welcomes us with a good fire lit and inviting odorino ...

Our intentions are to be somber on the spot by the wayside. We order a carafe of red and two plates of polenta and roasted ... Which, fine, they vanish like snow in the sun.

beautiful, lively, with a full belly and a heart full of satisfaction for the views, calmly take the path for the return.

Along the path, I get a call from Louis, "c. .. But where are you? Are you kidding?". To which I say, "But, look, thought to have passed under Medal and Antimedale and I've noticed people coming up ..". "But we were !!!"... Omit some expressions, typical of alpine ...

In conclusion, the call can be summed up thus: "Luke, you find yourselves at the bar and Riccardo in Lecco in an hour."

was how the day was worthy of celebration and dedication ...

Richard and I, happy and fed, drinking beer and Daniel Louis, fell dall'Antimedale, where they had climbed with Valseschini. Fitting conclusion to a day of fun and enjoyable, with nice people!

Richard, in particular, the first to greet everyone has an appointment with the strike of the Medal. I, however, in my heart so I hope to soon be able to resume a speech remained open with a way of Another, Grande, Immortal huge and Richard ...

Medale Hello, come back soon!