Corna Medal (1029)
Via Cassin-Dell'Oro
360 M, V, V + / VI-/A0
Sunday, February 21, 2010
Via Cassin-Dell'Oro
360 M, V, V + / VI-/A0
Sunday, February 21, 2010
climbing routes exist, or if you prefer "classic", which, for each zone, are the "classical" par excellence ...
Vie importance that the scope of which goes far beyond simple reports, and similar levels of difficulty.
Streets that are just "history."
For the Lombardy Alps, which marked the milestone with a much earlier than many other areas where hikers and climbers were active (at that time, rock climbers), that point is certainly open to the street in the '30s by Riccardo Cassin and Mario Dall'Ora "Boga".
A street of 360 meters of development that addresses the problem of the south-east wall of the Horns of Medal. following a logical line of dihedrals, cracks, chips. Daring for its time, won after a "tough fight in the wall," complete with a campfire, was celebrated by the people of Lecco as perhaps today's victory is celebrated only in the National Football World Cup.
360 meters away physics, with many traits laborious, made even more annoying by the greasy rock by countless repetitions ... Yet still there, "popular," and traveled to capacity. Perhaps the most traveled road to rock Lombard Alps.
One way that can not fail in the book of those who want to know the great classics, despite the low altitude of the medal, just above 1000 feet ... One of those mountains (because it is still a mountain) called "bollards" from "Western", but capable of attracting and seducing lovers and mountain climbing.
Sunday, February 21 Domains of the Year in 2010, finally, after so long that I kept it in sight, though often in disbelief over my ability, thanks to my friend Daniel, Crodaioli of PlanetMountain, with a monstrous effort, squeezing energy and at various points using the "milking unbiased", I managed to climb this classic (applause, standing ovation and public into a frenzy .... Ok, ok, me and calm back to us ...) For
me, this ascent was the culmination of a dream which began three years ago or so, when he returned to the mountain after a few years away, yet I did not think (but I really wanted) to return to get their hands on the rock at some level ... Arrived in Lombardy, manic bibliophile that I am, one of the first steps was to purchase the material found on these mountains ... Reading and rereading Grigne and their satellites, I could not dwell on the medal, the mountain in the 80s for me was just one of the peaks of low-level notes for the activity of Lecco climbers, climbing mountains and at the same excellence can to offer the tranquility of the cliff and the so-called alpine experience ... Riccardo Cassin where a wall with the Boga had written a page memorable in the history of climbing, bringing attention to the walls "at low altitude, passing with a great attitude on the mountain wall, complete with a campfire ...
Paper in hand, I was reading the report, merciless on the degree ... "V + / A0" and, in my heart, I kept saying "I could go back fifteen years ... I could go climbing on the fifth, maybe I could put in my pocket this way the two great ...". But
not believe it, it seemed too distant possibility.
A year ago, approximately, while coming down from a walk at the end of winter in San Martino, Lecco above, while I was approaching the car, I feel a peremptory voice: "You are Arterio." It was Daniel, alias Crodaioli, which, as a great physiognomist what is seen from the photos on my photo albums I had recognized ... Laughter customary, then straight down to Lecco for a beer ... Talk about common passions and then, I remember perfectly the famous phrase, which soon becomes a torment, "But still you have not been on the Cassin You can not ..."
Yet, at first, seemed like a speed too ...
While friendship with Crodaioli was steadily gaining the trust also David, in his own way, I pointed out that, in short, not yet on the Cassin was really strange ...
few months later, also became friends with Louis Slowrun and even then If the sentence does not change ... "You did not make the Cassin? Must provide!"
Yet to me it seemed so far away the possibility ...
Spring is coming ... Thanks to the aforementioned friends I start to rise with increasing confidence, but I still seemed far Cassin ...
Summer, autumn arrives and the "grade" increases ... Here comes a nice day "in Gathering Medal and get ready to climb, finally, the Cassin ... A virus, violent and annoying, but I'm struck in the morning ... I try to hold on, get to see up close the connection ... But the virus is stronger. I have to get off, give up the Cassin and, worse still, the group dinner ...
Daniel David and Louise try to cheer him up ... With David we take some satisfaction, with Daniel and Luigi as well. Between November and December can Salier Mir on the edge and then on the Bottom in Antimedale ... I begin to feel that the time approaches ...
But to put the spanner in the works come from the cold and rain. E 'winter, it snows a lot, well it rains ... They spend three months of inactivity, and then, finally, after another attack of influenza and recrudescence of work, get a good time.
a mountain, as in life, it is. Opportunities should be grabbed on the fly and do not give up ...
I see the weather for Sunday, February 21 should be good. I feel now, and Louis Daniel (David Sunday is commanded a lifetime of service). Luigi niche, he is "red" with permessini Sunday ... I get a permission from my better half full and so does the Crodaioli ...
finally arrived on the Sunday fair, which starts in the best ways to find Jailbird at 8:00 for coffee, croissants, pee and poo. Appointment, unexpected, also come to bring greetings Marco Anghileri, Bacchus', who, unable to go to climb due to elbow problems, is gone at night to take a ride in Moregallo ...
The rest is a "chronicle of a joy announced," for which there is no need to tell anything on a technical climb straconosciuta and well-known ... Certainly not for me to give an opinion that is nothing more than the mere opinion and personal taste or not to climb on a similar route. To me, actually, loved it ... Classical, logicissima, very athletic. As for degrees, I think it correct to call it a V with a few more passaggetti peppered (more for the anointed one for the real difficulties), these widely resettable "high percentage of milking."
For what reason I call this route in terms so positive and enthusiastic? It 's all a matter of "approach" on the street. If one is looking for a great classic rock fabulous, rock without furniture, with up grades and "elegance", I think we have not.
It 's a way "to Cassin, very physical, athletic ... From the fourth up (and there's a lot) is athletic, has the fourth-down grass and stones are also not rare furniture.
For me, I walk the streets on a mental rather than sport, is and remains a nice Vione, full of history ...
It is particularly exposed, but ... If anyone interested in the streets full of history and anecdotes, physical, athletic, recalling the days of the pioneers ... Well, the Cassin is a must. As I have pointed out my friends ... A moral obligation.
artery and back to the "classic" (read: milking and zero wild), the best numbers occurred in the first dihedral., reached after two tirelli "easy", with a couple of passaggetti that foreshadowed the anointed one of the steps waiting for us. Clears the facts respecting the sacred Crodaioli referrals, of course ... There are a couple of vintage chains (a sort of break or something like that) just right to put its measure Arterio ...
test up "as it should be" number one ... Slide ... Try number two .. Slide on .. At this point, grab the chain and on ... The first step in AU (Climbing sull'Unto) is solved.
followed by a couple of shots of which we speak quite low, for a series of corners, Saltini plates, very continuous and athletic, back and forth between IV +, V-, with several steps of V and, in particular, a dihedral (the second dihedral) really hard and greasy, a healthy V +, which, incredibly, I "drink" godendomelo ... Be seen from there the famous "key step" ...
Step Root: Crodaioli I had explained the movement ... The observe, memorize, but apparently not too much. It's up to me ... Obviously I stubborn and do not step ... Rest hung. Try again, I was too low and I Ghiso arms. Rest hung for a while '. I try to get angry and decide to put a tape in to place a Prusik mo 'bracket ... But me and wrap me mad at myself ... Meanwhile, the Crodaioli I pulled two screaming not to be repeated ... Struck to the heart of pride, I decided to try and find the right support, I can get up to move and finally do as he says ... Lunging right, I take a good grip, get in and then I restore ... I tell mona eighteen times by myself and then I go back to take the idiot from Crodaioli ...
followed by two more shots, still quite involved, that must carry the "Bivouac Cassin" in beam. Again we are in constant trouble id + IV and a few easily measurable point of the V-. The exhibition becomes greater and the fatigue is felt, especially for those out of practice. The
Traverso, instead, to laugh: the Crodaioli, to meet me, does not refer to nothing. It combines the two shots to break up over the transom. Very good, because in case of fall, I would not "surge" ... But bad for understanding the development of cross ... I found myself doing a two to three meters using the handles (not evil, sin under it all slip) and then stop, seeing the rope that led up ... I tried to go up and Crodaioli, after letting me go, I said that I had to get off and cross again ... A situation that was repeated several times, not without a grin from the Crodaioli ... All in all, fun and safe ... Small declined and then again through ... Traverso, climb, and dropped back through ... In short, movements worthy of a climbing wall on the Cassin ...
But the references in Crodaioli were sacred and not pulled ... For the rest, however, all I found was good for traction ...
A lot of points, however, for which I had prepared myself mentally to clear, I do not know with whom congiunzone astral, I managed to pass only attacking the rock ... Maybe because I was too lazy to clear ...
enjoyed a lot and I care a damn of redpoint ...
to save face I can always claim to have increased from the second classical technique ... Sounds good, is expressed in Bell'Italia. even if it means that they are always risen from foo (which has fun and does not care).
Tragic, in conclusion, the last shot ... Again the Crodaioli "unifies" the shots, making one last shot sixty feet dry. I, now, was the fruit with the police, I dreamed of the beer, however, was the Crodaioli claiming loudly ... Sixty meters of the third and fourth, that they seemed like an eternity ... But in the end, the output has approached and welcomed us ...
good laugh, shake hands, top cigarette for me and immediately telephoned to find ourselves by Luigi Antonio to celebrate the Cassin as it should ...
Tired, but happy as a baby.
Exhausted, but joyful to be able to "get out" ... I squeezed the energy ... And I came out happy, happy, happy as a child, happy as a clam ... I managed to get a better physical satisfaction, but even greater in terms of knowledge ... Of that eternal, unquenchable thirst for knowledge, see, feel and touch that afflicts those who love the mountains ...
A dream has come true.
Thank God, many others are here, ready to remain so or to come true ...
Dreams of which, between jokes and jokes, abbimao discussed at large, to the Bar of Antonio, to the cable car to Erna, where we reached, after the descent, the Luigino Slowrun, ready to celebrate the baptism took place at the old Arterio Cassin ... Because, unfortunately, including Daniel, Louis and David also ... Casserole dish, the older I am ...
A day to frame, an endless joy to me ... Joy, then, was prolonged in the Tales of Forum PlanetMountain, where there have been jokes and jokes and where, with the complicity of Louis and Daniel, did this little parody of some passages of The Betrothed ...
Parody climbing that, in our view, would do good Manzoni happy, if only they could read it and that I enclose, in chisura post as an additional thank you to Daniel, Louis and David, my mentors and fellow climber, which binds me, besides the clear estimate, a friendship that is growing strong, as you know who is using up in the mountains. Bind to the same string is more than a gesture of insurance ... Provides confidence in the partner, putting their safety in his hands and trust him. In my "Good" Manzoni, again, a heartfelt thanks.
"It was not long ago when, timid and uncertain, Don Arterio, descending the stairs from the Chapel of Sacred Heart back to Rancio, kept repeating "Grigne and Medal ... Carneades, who was this man ?"...
And as he tried to pass unnoticed among the many tourists intent on a healthy walk, was stopped by two good, one and a Crodaioli Franco, who, regardless of his repeated almost as a broken record, the phrase "non sum dignus, carried him into a bar ... Here he was reminded of the existence of Medale ... He was told loud and clear that" this rise must one do ".
Time passed, changed conditions, changed a lot. The words of two good ones were added to a Don Rodrigo, who, despite having lost the thick hair of his youth, he was back in the old pomp and splendor mountain ...
Yet, at the dusk of autumn, the Plague hit Fr Arterio at a meeting of good, Nameless and other characters ... Arterio Don had to give up the base of the climb to do s'avea ... A good
Renzo Davidùn Tramaglino Merate, longtime friend of Don Arterio, had reported on the right path of awareness, while Bravo and Luigi Griso Crodaioli Corsalenta continued their work of preparing the old Don ...
And finally, a year later, the marriage between the desire to be able to pick up and the dream could take place.
The Bravo Swirl, with the greatest joy of a don Arterio renewed and determined, despite three months of "down" because health and work, he succeeded to bring joy to the aforementioned Don ... The which, once reached the top of his travels in the footsteps of St. Richard and St. Mario, wrote the following poem, which it says is a snippet:
"A source from the waters and mountains soon elevated to the sky , unequal peaks known to those who have gone up and loved and impressed upon his mind ... ... soon. How to light up those of you born-again for a while it has gone away "
next time and thanks to Daniel Griso curly the way, to Luigi Bravo Corsalenta, for moral support, as well as the Bravo Bacc ', guardian of the soul of Grignetta that has materialized before departure for a coffee with friends and cheer for a certain Don Arterio yes but fearful ...
Vie importance that the scope of which goes far beyond simple reports, and similar levels of difficulty.
Streets that are just "history."
For the Lombardy Alps, which marked the milestone with a much earlier than many other areas where hikers and climbers were active (at that time, rock climbers), that point is certainly open to the street in the '30s by Riccardo Cassin and Mario Dall'Ora "Boga".
A street of 360 meters of development that addresses the problem of the south-east wall of the Horns of Medal. following a logical line of dihedrals, cracks, chips. Daring for its time, won after a "tough fight in the wall," complete with a campfire, was celebrated by the people of Lecco as perhaps today's victory is celebrated only in the National Football World Cup.
360 meters away physics, with many traits laborious, made even more annoying by the greasy rock by countless repetitions ... Yet still there, "popular," and traveled to capacity. Perhaps the most traveled road to rock Lombard Alps.
One way that can not fail in the book of those who want to know the great classics, despite the low altitude of the medal, just above 1000 feet ... One of those mountains (because it is still a mountain) called "bollards" from "Western", but capable of attracting and seducing lovers and mountain climbing.
Sunday, February 21 Domains of the Year in 2010, finally, after so long that I kept it in sight, though often in disbelief over my ability, thanks to my friend Daniel, Crodaioli of PlanetMountain, with a monstrous effort, squeezing energy and at various points using the "milking unbiased", I managed to climb this classic (applause, standing ovation and public into a frenzy .... Ok, ok, me and calm back to us ...) For
me, this ascent was the culmination of a dream which began three years ago or so, when he returned to the mountain after a few years away, yet I did not think (but I really wanted) to return to get their hands on the rock at some level ... Arrived in Lombardy, manic bibliophile that I am, one of the first steps was to purchase the material found on these mountains ... Reading and rereading Grigne and their satellites, I could not dwell on the medal, the mountain in the 80s for me was just one of the peaks of low-level notes for the activity of Lecco climbers, climbing mountains and at the same excellence can to offer the tranquility of the cliff and the so-called alpine experience ... Riccardo Cassin where a wall with the Boga had written a page memorable in the history of climbing, bringing attention to the walls "at low altitude, passing with a great attitude on the mountain wall, complete with a campfire ...
Paper in hand, I was reading the report, merciless on the degree ... "V + / A0" and, in my heart, I kept saying "I could go back fifteen years ... I could go climbing on the fifth, maybe I could put in my pocket this way the two great ...". But
not believe it, it seemed too distant possibility.
A year ago, approximately, while coming down from a walk at the end of winter in San Martino, Lecco above, while I was approaching the car, I feel a peremptory voice: "You are Arterio." It was Daniel, alias Crodaioli, which, as a great physiognomist what is seen from the photos on my photo albums I had recognized ... Laughter customary, then straight down to Lecco for a beer ... Talk about common passions and then, I remember perfectly the famous phrase, which soon becomes a torment, "But still you have not been on the Cassin You can not ..."
Yet, at first, seemed like a speed too ...
While friendship with Crodaioli was steadily gaining the trust also David, in his own way, I pointed out that, in short, not yet on the Cassin was really strange ...
few months later, also became friends with Louis Slowrun and even then If the sentence does not change ... "You did not make the Cassin? Must provide!"
Yet to me it seemed so far away the possibility ...
Spring is coming ... Thanks to the aforementioned friends I start to rise with increasing confidence, but I still seemed far Cassin ...
Summer, autumn arrives and the "grade" increases ... Here comes a nice day "in Gathering Medal and get ready to climb, finally, the Cassin ... A virus, violent and annoying, but I'm struck in the morning ... I try to hold on, get to see up close the connection ... But the virus is stronger. I have to get off, give up the Cassin and, worse still, the group dinner ...
Daniel David and Louise try to cheer him up ... With David we take some satisfaction, with Daniel and Luigi as well. Between November and December can Salier Mir on the edge and then on the Bottom in Antimedale ... I begin to feel that the time approaches ...
But to put the spanner in the works come from the cold and rain. E 'winter, it snows a lot, well it rains ... They spend three months of inactivity, and then, finally, after another attack of influenza and recrudescence of work, get a good time.
a mountain, as in life, it is. Opportunities should be grabbed on the fly and do not give up ...
I see the weather for Sunday, February 21 should be good. I feel now, and Louis Daniel (David Sunday is commanded a lifetime of service). Luigi niche, he is "red" with permessini Sunday ... I get a permission from my better half full and so does the Crodaioli ...
finally arrived on the Sunday fair, which starts in the best ways to find Jailbird at 8:00 for coffee, croissants, pee and poo. Appointment, unexpected, also come to bring greetings Marco Anghileri, Bacchus', who, unable to go to climb due to elbow problems, is gone at night to take a ride in Moregallo ...
The rest is a "chronicle of a joy announced," for which there is no need to tell anything on a technical climb straconosciuta and well-known ... Certainly not for me to give an opinion that is nothing more than the mere opinion and personal taste or not to climb on a similar route. To me, actually, loved it ... Classical, logicissima, very athletic. As for degrees, I think it correct to call it a V with a few more passaggetti peppered (more for the anointed one for the real difficulties), these widely resettable "high percentage of milking."
For what reason I call this route in terms so positive and enthusiastic? It 's all a matter of "approach" on the street. If one is looking for a great classic rock fabulous, rock without furniture, with up grades and "elegance", I think we have not.
It 's a way "to Cassin, very physical, athletic ... From the fourth up (and there's a lot) is athletic, has the fourth-down grass and stones are also not rare furniture.
For me, I walk the streets on a mental rather than sport, is and remains a nice Vione, full of history ...
It is particularly exposed, but ... If anyone interested in the streets full of history and anecdotes, physical, athletic, recalling the days of the pioneers ... Well, the Cassin is a must. As I have pointed out my friends ... A moral obligation.
artery and back to the "classic" (read: milking and zero wild), the best numbers occurred in the first dihedral., reached after two tirelli "easy", with a couple of passaggetti that foreshadowed the anointed one of the steps waiting for us. Clears the facts respecting the sacred Crodaioli referrals, of course ... There are a couple of vintage chains (a sort of break or something like that) just right to put its measure Arterio ...
test up "as it should be" number one ... Slide ... Try number two .. Slide on .. At this point, grab the chain and on ... The first step in AU (Climbing sull'Unto) is solved.
followed by a couple of shots of which we speak quite low, for a series of corners, Saltini plates, very continuous and athletic, back and forth between IV +, V-, with several steps of V and, in particular, a dihedral (the second dihedral) really hard and greasy, a healthy V +, which, incredibly, I "drink" godendomelo ... Be seen from there the famous "key step" ...
Step Root: Crodaioli I had explained the movement ... The observe, memorize, but apparently not too much. It's up to me ... Obviously I stubborn and do not step ... Rest hung. Try again, I was too low and I Ghiso arms. Rest hung for a while '. I try to get angry and decide to put a tape in to place a Prusik mo 'bracket ... But me and wrap me mad at myself ... Meanwhile, the Crodaioli I pulled two screaming not to be repeated ... Struck to the heart of pride, I decided to try and find the right support, I can get up to move and finally do as he says ... Lunging right, I take a good grip, get in and then I restore ... I tell mona eighteen times by myself and then I go back to take the idiot from Crodaioli ...
followed by two more shots, still quite involved, that must carry the "Bivouac Cassin" in beam. Again we are in constant trouble id + IV and a few easily measurable point of the V-. The exhibition becomes greater and the fatigue is felt, especially for those out of practice. The
Traverso, instead, to laugh: the Crodaioli, to meet me, does not refer to nothing. It combines the two shots to break up over the transom. Very good, because in case of fall, I would not "surge" ... But bad for understanding the development of cross ... I found myself doing a two to three meters using the handles (not evil, sin under it all slip) and then stop, seeing the rope that led up ... I tried to go up and Crodaioli, after letting me go, I said that I had to get off and cross again ... A situation that was repeated several times, not without a grin from the Crodaioli ... All in all, fun and safe ... Small declined and then again through ... Traverso, climb, and dropped back through ... In short, movements worthy of a climbing wall on the Cassin ...
But the references in Crodaioli were sacred and not pulled ... For the rest, however, all I found was good for traction ...
A lot of points, however, for which I had prepared myself mentally to clear, I do not know with whom congiunzone astral, I managed to pass only attacking the rock ... Maybe because I was too lazy to clear ...
enjoyed a lot and I care a damn of redpoint ...
to save face I can always claim to have increased from the second classical technique ... Sounds good, is expressed in Bell'Italia. even if it means that they are always risen from foo (which has fun and does not care).
Tragic, in conclusion, the last shot ... Again the Crodaioli "unifies" the shots, making one last shot sixty feet dry. I, now, was the fruit with the police, I dreamed of the beer, however, was the Crodaioli claiming loudly ... Sixty meters of the third and fourth, that they seemed like an eternity ... But in the end, the output has approached and welcomed us ...
good laugh, shake hands, top cigarette for me and immediately telephoned to find ourselves by Luigi Antonio to celebrate the Cassin as it should ...
Tired, but happy as a baby.
Exhausted, but joyful to be able to "get out" ... I squeezed the energy ... And I came out happy, happy, happy as a child, happy as a clam ... I managed to get a better physical satisfaction, but even greater in terms of knowledge ... Of that eternal, unquenchable thirst for knowledge, see, feel and touch that afflicts those who love the mountains ...
A dream has come true.
Thank God, many others are here, ready to remain so or to come true ...
Dreams of which, between jokes and jokes, abbimao discussed at large, to the Bar of Antonio, to the cable car to Erna, where we reached, after the descent, the Luigino Slowrun, ready to celebrate the baptism took place at the old Arterio Cassin ... Because, unfortunately, including Daniel, Louis and David also ... Casserole dish, the older I am ...
A day to frame, an endless joy to me ... Joy, then, was prolonged in the Tales of Forum PlanetMountain, where there have been jokes and jokes and where, with the complicity of Louis and Daniel, did this little parody of some passages of The Betrothed ...
Parody climbing that, in our view, would do good Manzoni happy, if only they could read it and that I enclose, in chisura post as an additional thank you to Daniel, Louis and David, my mentors and fellow climber, which binds me, besides the clear estimate, a friendship that is growing strong, as you know who is using up in the mountains. Bind to the same string is more than a gesture of insurance ... Provides confidence in the partner, putting their safety in his hands and trust him. In my "Good" Manzoni, again, a heartfelt thanks.
"I PROMISE CASSINI"
(loosely based on the Alessandro Manzoni)
(loosely based on the Alessandro Manzoni)
"It was not long ago when, timid and uncertain, Don Arterio, descending the stairs from the Chapel of Sacred Heart back to Rancio, kept repeating "Grigne and Medal ... Carneades, who was this man ?"...
And as he tried to pass unnoticed among the many tourists intent on a healthy walk, was stopped by two good, one and a Crodaioli Franco, who, regardless of his repeated almost as a broken record, the phrase "non sum dignus, carried him into a bar ... Here he was reminded of the existence of Medale ... He was told loud and clear that" this rise must one do ".
Time passed, changed conditions, changed a lot. The words of two good ones were added to a Don Rodrigo, who, despite having lost the thick hair of his youth, he was back in the old pomp and splendor mountain ...
Yet, at the dusk of autumn, the Plague hit Fr Arterio at a meeting of good, Nameless and other characters ... Arterio Don had to give up the base of the climb to do s'avea ... A good
Renzo Davidùn Tramaglino Merate, longtime friend of Don Arterio, had reported on the right path of awareness, while Bravo and Luigi Griso Crodaioli Corsalenta continued their work of preparing the old Don ...
And finally, a year later, the marriage between the desire to be able to pick up and the dream could take place.
The Bravo Swirl, with the greatest joy of a don Arterio renewed and determined, despite three months of "down" because health and work, he succeeded to bring joy to the aforementioned Don ... The which, once reached the top of his travels in the footsteps of St. Richard and St. Mario, wrote the following poem, which it says is a snippet:
"A source from the waters and mountains soon elevated to the sky , unequal peaks known to those who have gone up and loved and impressed upon his mind ... ... soon. How to light up those of you born-again for a while it has gone away "
next time and thanks to Daniel Griso curly the way, to Luigi Bravo Corsalenta, for moral support, as well as the Bravo Bacc ', guardian of the soul of Grignetta that has materialized before departure for a coffee with friends and cheer for a certain Don Arterio yes but fearful ...
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