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Antimedale Via Chiappa 220 m,
D +, V, V +, 1 p. VI-
Friday, December 11, 2009
Antimedale Via Chiappa 220 m,
D +, V, V +, 1 p. VI-
Friday, December 11, 2009
Resegone year, and Medal Grignetta have decided to gift me some extra ...
do not know what this is due, maybe someone will say that was my lucky stars ... The fact is that, when I thought that with the rising edge of the Mir had exhausted the number of days "fabulous" to get their hands on the rock version in almost spring, so here I am being served on a silver platter still a great day for most of the magnificent limestone dell'Antimedale.
do not know what this is due, maybe someone will say that was my lucky stars ... The fact is that, when I thought that with the rising edge of the Mir had exhausted the number of days "fabulous" to get their hands on the rock version in almost spring, so here I am being served on a silver platter still a great day for most of the magnificent limestone dell'Antimedale.
to want to see in a "conspiracy", I think that the medal, after seeing me as a lamb at Easter depressed at having to give up due to the influence Medal of just over a month ago with friends of Planet Mountain, has well thought out to "repay" at least in part, offering a wonderful day on his satellite Antimedale.
was a bit 'that David wanted to repeat something nice, maybe not too challenging, but rewarding, joyful, happy. We still remember the pleasure of the climb to the tower Magnaghi a wonderful day, even hot ... On the phone the day before, the usual skirmishes, "Okay, come on, we sail in sight ... We are located in Lecco, drink coffee and then decide at the last minute ...". The "find at Lecco" is indicative of the autumn or winter ... Had it been spring or summer, the appointment would be directly Ballabio ... The
next day, early in the morning, encouraged by forecasts that give good and clear sky day, mii wake up early, without exaggeration, without exaggerating and always have my breakfast, a couple of washings, some other typical morning practice and then off, same road .. . Tangenziale, Cinisello, Monza, Liss, Carate ... Arrival in Lecco smoothly, and I go out the exit port of Manzoni usual Bar, freqeuntato the morning, among other things, many climbers who have been meeting here. Although the traditions have their weight.
the street, watching the silhouettes fabulous Grigne and Medale with the colors of dawn, I thought about what to propose to David ... Since October I was still left the bone in the throat of non-delivery of the Cassin Medal, but with the influence you can not do anything. In such a beautiful day, the trip was to have something complete ... A nice line, good exposure and perhaps, why not something "historic" by signfiicativo ...
had long targeted the Via Chiappa all'Antimedale. The numbers do not say much, although well presented. 220 m. Development, D, V and V +, 1 p. VI. V + required. Degrees "low" to the canons of modern climbers accustomed to more difficulties and protections under the arm, but still a healthy way of protection with V not too close for those who love the classic climbs. In addition, a route opened by the legendary and sadly deceased too early Daniele Chiappa, Ciapin, great climber, mountain rescue engine for years, writer and more ... One of those figures that immediately identifies with the Mountain ...
be able to do in December, the fateful "step" and "raise the grade" on a street "mythical" a mountaineer "mythical", well, it was the best ... Yes, I would have been a "raise the grade" because, since I started going to the mountains, is only a year or so that I put my hands on rock "comme il faut," with rope, slings and nuts ... I started with relatively easy way and now, slowly, I'm back on resumed degrees a little 'less bass ... With considerable satisfaction. Not that everything can be ... But you can easily do steps V and a bit more than lines that allows you to follow to do only the third or the fourth ... In addition, today I had a sort of autobenedizione, ripecorrendo a route that would allow me to send a silent salute to the figure of the great Ciapin ...
A Lecco, Arlette "brisk", meeting with David, four ciacole before the coffee and then straight to Rancio. To reach agreement and go straight to the Bottom was enough of a much less coffee ... Allegri, party, after leaving the car at the parking and ancoia intabarrati, along the famous trail that goes to the streets and the strike. We arrive at the fan speed under the walls of debris that accompanies dell'Antimedale and begin the slow climb, happy. The day is fabulous, and once the sun came, it becomes almost warm ...
arrive attack and find a group of five boys in his sixties bold, cheerful and talkative. Two arrows are to be lost and the Bottom and the other three are already starting. The temperature is already optimal ... While the third salt, we're still preparing quiet.
Coming soon the moment of calm (the bold young go as trains), and David, as the "5" pragmatic, peaceful part ... Small aside: between me and David, generally, there is a sort of challenge to those who can lose the most obvious way velocmeente other. Also on this occasion David did not deny ... He takes a plate, muttering something like "I do not remember whether straight or right .." and then proceeds, following the course of the Other Bottom line. Not bad, so, for the first two shots, instead of following a line of III and IV, we follow a more direct and a bit of IV + 'V. .. All heating (both the line of the road is clear, the cliff to get to where it is clear as ever and the way is not really required).
While David is coming to stop, get quiet two guys, obviously interested in this field wall. We salute you and one, osservatomi, smiling at me saying "You are Arterio Lupin, right? I recognized the helmet ..."... Giogalimba of PlanetMountain, is presented. I have to laugh, metallic gray power of my helmet (with ABS, ESP and Navigator series, I always add to those who song - that is all - talking about my helmet).
go up the first pitch, a little 'contract for the first meters, then, once you're comfortable with that fantastic rock, is the miracle ... I start to get up and move with incredible ease, having fun like crazy ...
David again and the second shot (even in this case follows another Chiappa) come to rest under the overhang, which is right, clear, begin the corners, inviting. Date back almost enjoying the length, the rock is amazing and delightful line. I do not feel the V, but ... I'm enjoying the climb ... Besides, the temperature is ideal, warm and almost makes you sweat to climb.
The third shot is fabulous, diedrini and a sort of groove until the break. A long shot, sustained, with a lot of V-and a little 'V', where really fun. Beautiful, air, compelling, the strongest of the street, and perhaps also the most photogenic. The having fun date back a mess, worse than children. There are no laborious steps or force, but only technical and airplanes ... A real pleasure.
The fourth pitch - is decided by mutual agreement - will be broken: the first traces diedrozzo and just above the gully to below the roof and throw a "quattrobarrauno" through to the crux in the fifth. David
gay dating dihedral V full technical but not difficult, although a minimum Athletic towards the end if you tend to feel a little split in ... To climb it with good technique, however, supports and footings are not lacking. Very pleasant, about half, a back plate work of adhesion with the shoes ....
the stop (in common with the Way of the Teacher), arrived two Altrachiappisti, with whom we talk. Of course, begin by saying "but you did a variant at the start, right?". I, equally obviously, not to say that the barrel had to leave, I only said "you know, by doing so the line is as straight as ...". Smile of complicity (they certainly understood everything) and then sideways. The traverse is not difficult, with a nice passaggetto IV-V on display at the end, adherence ... We thank the shoes of the Grip (BAT are fabulous) and we get stopped.
The fifth pitch is defined as the crux, because of a tot of V + and VI-a passaggetto. The path is very clear and is well secured with a few resin right where you need it. David goes back and ravanare after a minimum on the slot-overhanging dihedral, cross and get parked. He tells me to go back: the first part, all of V, goes quiet. It comes under the overhanging crack, where, putting his hands into the slot and chopping, you go without any problems ... To move the line of VI-, rising, there is a good grip (a little 'smoothed) for the right and then a left box, hidden, a good handle ... Handle, on the first try, just can not find. Try, try again ... But I do not see and can not find it. After two attempts and an equal braised forearm, and I break mungo brutally referral to go see ... But nasty cow, there it is ... Descends a step, I vanish reference, grab the two appiglioni and I get up ...
The passage, however, is not finished and you have to bring in better exposure to a surface crack that goes to a plant, to the right. Even here there is some healthy V +, with unhealthy grass make things spicier ... Still a bit 'of attention and then through bottom-up, always with difficulty on V, to rest.
Other chats between me and David, who immediately left for the sixth and last traces, crossing a few yards left to go up along cracks tending then exit, clear and visible on the left. David beam holding up, Ravana a little bit ... Then grab the lip of the first slot and the fourth part. Soon emerged, postponing the break and also covers the last twenty meters to the chain of the glide path. I get the fateful scream "When you want!" and childbirth ... I remembered the advice of the report and try to make the beam in a couple of yards downhill to that which serves a delicate V-down, take a small ledge from where the Sisten of cracks leading to the exit. The V-takes a few meters, up hills, then turns to finish fourth, crossing to the left, with a III + / IV-very mild (the rock is a flake who can not wait to be allowed to fall ... Delicate, pay attention).
exit, you titrova dall'Antimedale on the glide path, a path-equipped for lovers of the railways would be considered "Difficult", with various points adhesion and sheer drops. The path coincides with that of the Black Valley, which leads to the top of the medal, but I do not recommend the simple hikers because of the numerous roads free of equipment and exposed to the large quantity of stones ready to fall that would create dangers for many climbers who enjoy the wonderful on the wall.
David and I can finally change your shoes, remove the instruments of torture and put those to approach. After a quick stop, we start to fall. The trail is very slippery and exposed, although unfortunately equipped with chains in the most horrid "problematic." In short, we go down the Black Valley and return the backpacks ... We see a couple who is doing the numbers on the single pitch near Lost Arrows on the bottom, the two boys struggling with the last two shots of "The Other Bottom."
between a pat on the shoulder and the other, are now past 13, after photographs and chat, call good Luigi "Slowrun ... Inform him of my case "Baptism dell'Antimedale" and let us meet in the center and Lecco for beer. Quietly, enjoying the magical colors of the mountains of Lecco, go down to the parking lot at the cemetery of Ranchi and calmly, we move towards Castelllo ... Louis shows us a really nice bar, well furnished, and here we are going to make us the beer duty to end up ... Well, Louis did not know, however, talking with the managers - they hear my accent is clearly not Lumbard and to which I proudly said "Son veneto" .- I learn that the operator is ... Jesolo!
Obviously we do the rounds of knowledge and mutual friends, then among the teasing of David and Louise, we said goodbye with a healthy you soon!
worthy end of a fabulous day, which for me marked the first ascent climbing sull'Antimedale and has further cemented the friendship with David and Luigi! Another gift Grigne Group, which in mid-December has done a really wonderful gift to us poor fans of the same ...
soon, Lecco, you're my new home ... (I know that I that in many mountainous areas, but what can I do .. I like the beautiful mountains and I see you soon at my house ... Especially if the environment "human" that surrounds them is closely tied to the mountains and what they mean ... And for the Lecchese so!).
was a bit 'that David wanted to repeat something nice, maybe not too challenging, but rewarding, joyful, happy. We still remember the pleasure of the climb to the tower Magnaghi a wonderful day, even hot ... On the phone the day before, the usual skirmishes, "Okay, come on, we sail in sight ... We are located in Lecco, drink coffee and then decide at the last minute ...". The "find at Lecco" is indicative of the autumn or winter ... Had it been spring or summer, the appointment would be directly Ballabio ... The
next day, early in the morning, encouraged by forecasts that give good and clear sky day, mii wake up early, without exaggeration, without exaggerating and always have my breakfast, a couple of washings, some other typical morning practice and then off, same road .. . Tangenziale, Cinisello, Monza, Liss, Carate ... Arrival in Lecco smoothly, and I go out the exit port of Manzoni usual Bar, freqeuntato the morning, among other things, many climbers who have been meeting here. Although the traditions have their weight.
the street, watching the silhouettes fabulous Grigne and Medale with the colors of dawn, I thought about what to propose to David ... Since October I was still left the bone in the throat of non-delivery of the Cassin Medal, but with the influence you can not do anything. In such a beautiful day, the trip was to have something complete ... A nice line, good exposure and perhaps, why not something "historic" by signfiicativo ...
had long targeted the Via Chiappa all'Antimedale. The numbers do not say much, although well presented. 220 m. Development, D, V and V +, 1 p. VI. V + required. Degrees "low" to the canons of modern climbers accustomed to more difficulties and protections under the arm, but still a healthy way of protection with V not too close for those who love the classic climbs. In addition, a route opened by the legendary and sadly deceased too early Daniele Chiappa, Ciapin, great climber, mountain rescue engine for years, writer and more ... One of those figures that immediately identifies with the Mountain ...
be able to do in December, the fateful "step" and "raise the grade" on a street "mythical" a mountaineer "mythical", well, it was the best ... Yes, I would have been a "raise the grade" because, since I started going to the mountains, is only a year or so that I put my hands on rock "comme il faut," with rope, slings and nuts ... I started with relatively easy way and now, slowly, I'm back on resumed degrees a little 'less bass ... With considerable satisfaction. Not that everything can be ... But you can easily do steps V and a bit more than lines that allows you to follow to do only the third or the fourth ... In addition, today I had a sort of autobenedizione, ripecorrendo a route that would allow me to send a silent salute to the figure of the great Ciapin ...
A Lecco, Arlette "brisk", meeting with David, four ciacole before the coffee and then straight to Rancio. To reach agreement and go straight to the Bottom was enough of a much less coffee ... Allegri, party, after leaving the car at the parking and ancoia intabarrati, along the famous trail that goes to the streets and the strike. We arrive at the fan speed under the walls of debris that accompanies dell'Antimedale and begin the slow climb, happy. The day is fabulous, and once the sun came, it becomes almost warm ...
arrive attack and find a group of five boys in his sixties bold, cheerful and talkative. Two arrows are to be lost and the Bottom and the other three are already starting. The temperature is already optimal ... While the third salt, we're still preparing quiet.
Coming soon the moment of calm (the bold young go as trains), and David, as the "5" pragmatic, peaceful part ... Small aside: between me and David, generally, there is a sort of challenge to those who can lose the most obvious way velocmeente other. Also on this occasion David did not deny ... He takes a plate, muttering something like "I do not remember whether straight or right .." and then proceeds, following the course of the Other Bottom line. Not bad, so, for the first two shots, instead of following a line of III and IV, we follow a more direct and a bit of IV + 'V. .. All heating (both the line of the road is clear, the cliff to get to where it is clear as ever and the way is not really required).
While David is coming to stop, get quiet two guys, obviously interested in this field wall. We salute you and one, osservatomi, smiling at me saying "You are Arterio Lupin, right? I recognized the helmet ..."... Giogalimba of PlanetMountain, is presented. I have to laugh, metallic gray power of my helmet (with ABS, ESP and Navigator series, I always add to those who song - that is all - talking about my helmet).
go up the first pitch, a little 'contract for the first meters, then, once you're comfortable with that fantastic rock, is the miracle ... I start to get up and move with incredible ease, having fun like crazy ...
David again and the second shot (even in this case follows another Chiappa) come to rest under the overhang, which is right, clear, begin the corners, inviting. Date back almost enjoying the length, the rock is amazing and delightful line. I do not feel the V, but ... I'm enjoying the climb ... Besides, the temperature is ideal, warm and almost makes you sweat to climb.
The third shot is fabulous, diedrini and a sort of groove until the break. A long shot, sustained, with a lot of V-and a little 'V', where really fun. Beautiful, air, compelling, the strongest of the street, and perhaps also the most photogenic. The having fun date back a mess, worse than children. There are no laborious steps or force, but only technical and airplanes ... A real pleasure.
The fourth pitch - is decided by mutual agreement - will be broken: the first traces diedrozzo and just above the gully to below the roof and throw a "quattrobarrauno" through to the crux in the fifth. David
gay dating dihedral V full technical but not difficult, although a minimum Athletic towards the end if you tend to feel a little split in ... To climb it with good technique, however, supports and footings are not lacking. Very pleasant, about half, a back plate work of adhesion with the shoes ....
the stop (in common with the Way of the Teacher), arrived two Altrachiappisti, with whom we talk. Of course, begin by saying "but you did a variant at the start, right?". I, equally obviously, not to say that the barrel had to leave, I only said "you know, by doing so the line is as straight as ...". Smile of complicity (they certainly understood everything) and then sideways. The traverse is not difficult, with a nice passaggetto IV-V on display at the end, adherence ... We thank the shoes of the Grip (BAT are fabulous) and we get stopped.
The fifth pitch is defined as the crux, because of a tot of V + and VI-a passaggetto. The path is very clear and is well secured with a few resin right where you need it. David goes back and ravanare after a minimum on the slot-overhanging dihedral, cross and get parked. He tells me to go back: the first part, all of V, goes quiet. It comes under the overhanging crack, where, putting his hands into the slot and chopping, you go without any problems ... To move the line of VI-, rising, there is a good grip (a little 'smoothed) for the right and then a left box, hidden, a good handle ... Handle, on the first try, just can not find. Try, try again ... But I do not see and can not find it. After two attempts and an equal braised forearm, and I break mungo brutally referral to go see ... But nasty cow, there it is ... Descends a step, I vanish reference, grab the two appiglioni and I get up ...
The passage, however, is not finished and you have to bring in better exposure to a surface crack that goes to a plant, to the right. Even here there is some healthy V +, with unhealthy grass make things spicier ... Still a bit 'of attention and then through bottom-up, always with difficulty on V, to rest.
Other chats between me and David, who immediately left for the sixth and last traces, crossing a few yards left to go up along cracks tending then exit, clear and visible on the left. David beam holding up, Ravana a little bit ... Then grab the lip of the first slot and the fourth part. Soon emerged, postponing the break and also covers the last twenty meters to the chain of the glide path. I get the fateful scream "When you want!" and childbirth ... I remembered the advice of the report and try to make the beam in a couple of yards downhill to that which serves a delicate V-down, take a small ledge from where the Sisten of cracks leading to the exit. The V-takes a few meters, up hills, then turns to finish fourth, crossing to the left, with a III + / IV-very mild (the rock is a flake who can not wait to be allowed to fall ... Delicate, pay attention).
exit, you titrova dall'Antimedale on the glide path, a path-equipped for lovers of the railways would be considered "Difficult", with various points adhesion and sheer drops. The path coincides with that of the Black Valley, which leads to the top of the medal, but I do not recommend the simple hikers because of the numerous roads free of equipment and exposed to the large quantity of stones ready to fall that would create dangers for many climbers who enjoy the wonderful on the wall.
David and I can finally change your shoes, remove the instruments of torture and put those to approach. After a quick stop, we start to fall. The trail is very slippery and exposed, although unfortunately equipped with chains in the most horrid "problematic." In short, we go down the Black Valley and return the backpacks ... We see a couple who is doing the numbers on the single pitch near Lost Arrows on the bottom, the two boys struggling with the last two shots of "The Other Bottom."
between a pat on the shoulder and the other, are now past 13, after photographs and chat, call good Luigi "Slowrun ... Inform him of my case "Baptism dell'Antimedale" and let us meet in the center and Lecco for beer. Quietly, enjoying the magical colors of the mountains of Lecco, go down to the parking lot at the cemetery of Ranchi and calmly, we move towards Castelllo ... Louis shows us a really nice bar, well furnished, and here we are going to make us the beer duty to end up ... Well, Louis did not know, however, talking with the managers - they hear my accent is clearly not Lumbard and to which I proudly said "Son veneto" .- I learn that the operator is ... Jesolo!
Obviously we do the rounds of knowledge and mutual friends, then among the teasing of David and Louise, we said goodbye with a healthy you soon!
worthy end of a fabulous day, which for me marked the first ascent climbing sull'Antimedale and has further cemented the friendship with David and Luigi! Another gift Grigne Group, which in mid-December has done a really wonderful gift to us poor fans of the same ...
soon, Lecco, you're my new home ... (I know that I that in many mountainous areas, but what can I do .. I like the beautiful mountains and I see you soon at my house ... Especially if the environment "human" that surrounds them is closely tied to the mountains and what they mean ... And for the Lecchese so!).
