Sunday, February 28, 2010

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SIMPLICITY 'THE GREAT: Beat Kammerlander

(pictured from left. Sergio Longoni, Fabio Palma, and the old Beat Kammerlander Arterio Lupin)


How to combine passion and profession:
encounter with Beat Kammerlander Sirtori , February 18, 2010


One of the greatest aspirations of - I think - anyone would be able to combine, at least in part, passion and profession. Often this is only a utopia, far from reality and, necessarily, we are content to give our best to work to be able to enjoy free time to devote to their passion with a clear conscience. This, of course, 'sti times, it would be a lot, given the moonlight that badly affect the world of work ... But it is another story ..

One of the advantages of those who make the translator and interpreter is undoubtedly that of having to do with worlds often different from each other, expanding their range of knowledge, especially from the standpoint of what I call "the varied humanity" .

Occasionally - not too often, but all in all, not too often-I happen to work in areas more or less related to the field of my passion ...

One of these fortunate cases - to be lucky every point of view - took place Thursday, February 18, 2010. A simply delightful evening at the Bevera Sirtori, at the main store in the chain of Sports Specialist, or of Longoni. Evening beautifully organized by Fabio Palma, writer-climber, master of ceremonies for the occasion, as well as a friend of Kammerlander, and concluded with the landlord, Sergio Longoni. Present many mountaineers and mountain lovers not only of Lecco, but in general, a large part of Lombardy, in spite of the time not just lenient. Among others, I had the opportunity to meet a figure '8 years and knew him only to read the pages of the newly formed "Alp" The Baller, aka Marco Ballerini, the first Italian, I believe, to pass an eighth, at the time of the boom in sport climbing in Italy ...

I had the honor - I want to emphasize - to act as interpreter for a mythical figure of mountaineering and climbing, Beat Kammerlander. I do not think the case to be to remember who is the legendary Beat ... Fifty years, yet the viability of a boy. And a little boy, of those once, humility and simplicity with which, happily, presented before the public for special occasions, photos and images of his climbing life.

With extreme simplicity has been able to tell how he came, almost by accident, climbing, but then continue to practice, making way of life and even trade, to become the living legend is now. Fifty years, yet still quiet in being able to walk in "clean climbing" the way Prinzip Hoffnung, which he opened, very little repeated (X + UIAA scale). Just to be clear, he took the luxury of thinking and a way to make a little ripetizone already repeated with the use of bolts, using only the movable (the nuts that probably would not have taken the flight of a cat, let alone a person ... When you say "psychological protection "...)... How

was not enough, always calm and smiling, he showed pictures an ascent of mixed assessed M10 ... Not to speak of ascents in the U.S. and more ... The hall was packed Sports Specialist, and yet, before the images (Beat is also an excellent photographer) and the words of Kammerlander, never too much, never too little, did not feel a fly, if not some half-sigh of wonder and disbelief.

Yet, with extreme humility, though it is aware of the significance that his figure has for mountaineering and climbing, the Beat has taken to quoting and emphasize value and businesses of friends and acquaintances with whom and which it climbs extreme respect, beginning with Peter Dal Pra '.

in a professional manner, but with courtesy absolutely no hypocrisy, nor any way false cuts, Beat did not recoil even for a moment to questions, requests for photos and autographs or to just chat. Quietly, even after the official part, including a glass of wine and some tasting the excellent buffet, Beat continued to respond to questions, toasting and laughing with everyone, be they a member of the Lecco Spiders or just a keen walker. He even had to apologize to me when, in response to someone, would ask me to support the glass for a moment and translate the answers ...

During the slide show, he never failed to emphasize what he was beaten showing. Always ready to laugh and joke, it's certainly a person who inspires so much respect and esteem, but no awe: on the contrary, is a person who inspires immediate sympathy goes fast enough confidence in and chat with pleasure. If, of course, I can not mention the various discourses arose on a personal level, which will remain ours, I should, however, to emphasize a aneddotino ... During the slide show on the slope of Prinzip Hoffnung, at some point could be seen as using ascended holds good for up to the end of the last phalanx of two fingers ... Something monstrous at the very thought ... Beat called them "holds" and then "cleats for the fingers" ... Closed microphone while the projection was wrong, turns and asks: "Why you had to laugh as he translated?". And I, "See, you call them holds, but I was willing to translate them with" fly droppings ", they were so small." The Kammerlander, sly, first laughs and then, still "well, yes, indeed ... let's say we just do a poo fly might have been safer ..." And down to laugh, quiet, aware of what he had done so great in its simplicity but do not take themselves too seriously and always able to get a few laughs.

Finally, I must add something that I greatly appreciated: Beat Kammerlander is one that absolutely does not disdain good wine, good food and a healthy cigarette every now and then ...

At least I can say this can compete with Kammerlander!

The evening then took a worthy epilogue "private" with a dinner late in Barzanò, hosted by Sergio Longoni, in addition to the Beat and his faithful companion Michl, was attended by Fabio Palma, Marco, and a pair Anghileri other friendly collaborators Longoni. A fine evening of chatter and laughter as well as the mountain, during which the struggle between those who swallow more liquid spirits between Italians and Austrians finished in substantially equal ...

a memorable and fun ...

if it was always possible think of work only in these terms ...

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