2) Handbrake M6/M6 + according to the quantity of ice
before the arrival of summer on Thursday, could not miss the rare and amazing conditions Patagonia's Dream and ... the legendary shooting of "hand brake", a true gem dry "made Gian Bazzocchi.
Dream Patagonia: 5/II, 180m
The candle, which is currently in excellent condition, is filling up with water and the conditions of high temperatures could still be dangerous.
line of ice to the right of the candle is detaching from the rock and is whitish.
Access: the A5 in direction Courmayeur Aosta until you come out to the West. Up the valley leading to Cogne and parking at the bottom of Valnontey.
Approach: follow the trail for pedestrians and ice climbers up under the waterfall, going clear on the right. Cross the river on the bridge and climb up the cone of the avalanche flow.
Warning: all the waterfalls on this side (E) are very dangerous in case of snow avalanches.
L1: 35m, 15m climb up the candle and continue straight lying in the direction of a birch. The rest, sometimes buried in the snow, is located just before the tree (+ spit nail).
L2: 45m, go easy on off-bypassing the rocks on the left and right to belay on bolts.
L3: snow slope to the base of the jump of ice.
L4: 35m, wall 80 and ribs easily lead to the break with bolts + nail on the right.
L5: 55m, 80/85 in another short wall built into the gully. Continue until the channel is easier to plant with cords and maillon.
Descent: double in the street. From L5 to L4, L4 to L2 by: note the double of 60 not enough to get the rest, you have to walk on a slope for about 10m, or to abase the ice to make a double term on abalakov, L1 and L2 to L1 ground.
on the candle from "Dream" ...
environment from the top of the gully via
short gully wall and then to the top
Handbrake: M6/M6 + according to the quantity of ice in and out on the original plate.
First ascent: Giancarlo Bazzocchi & C.
dihedral perfect ... a bit of rock and some ice ...
From the cave behind the candle to find the fantastic Dream dihedral and cracked open on the right. The rock is part
well bolted (6 bolt) but you still climb up to the beam that leads to the fringes, then you go out on ice to the tree top from which we descend. Very nice.
eventually picks are of little use to the fringes ...
little ice with the output would be harder ...
We hope that the "summer" we do not take away all these beautiful waterfalls and the season is still cha moooooolto long!
0 comments:
Post a Comment