With the increase in temperature, having to make a virtue of necessity, the gaze turns to the high mountains and Goulottes.
In these days of stable weather with Nik, Giampy Sofy and we decided to stay at the "Grand Hotel des Grands Montet and then decide according to the conditions and what should be done.
Giampiero Sofia and head to the beautiful and classic Ravanel Frendom the Tour Carré, Nicolas and I decide to head on the Great Rocheuse along the "Late to Say I'm sorry."
Late to Say I'm sorry, V 5 +, 5c and A2 1000 (or 750 if it drops in double from the top of the gully)
Access: up the valley from Chamonix indirection in Switzerland. Just before entering the village of Argentiere, park at the Grands Montets.
Approach: arrival of the upper section of the cable car down a few yards down the ski slope and traverse to the right along the wall until you pass down the Cordier Couloir dall'Aiguille Verte. Work around the rocky spur that runs down the glacier and back in the direction of Couturier Couloir of the crevasse. If you decide to go down to double from the top of the gully to convert much closer to ski, but if you want to reach the top of the Great Rocheuse and get off on the opposite side is more practical to bring the snowshoes.
Couturier Climb the couloir for about 400m until it begins to turn right. Go up the slopes leading down to his left towards the gully evident, pointing to a rocky spur that runs down the slope, just below the gully.
Along this outcrop of lava form of snow that can reach the wall steeper and that cross the lava rock wall.
Rsalire spur with four shots realtive never easy with vertical slopes. There are stops every 30-40 m along the gully.
The fourth pitch leads to a ramp up to right at the end of which there is a break in the vicinity of a roof. L5 can be approached in two ways depending on the amount of ice / snow stuck on the wall. 1) to the left of the stop valve is a plaque that is sometimes covered with snow pressed and allows a direct and fast access to the next pitch with a slope of 80 degrees R X. 2) the original route, however, traverse under the roof to the right to wedge into a narrow dihedral (A2/M6). On the right side of the dihedral are small cracks and blades that let you work around it (the snow on the bottom of the dihedral is rarely sufficient to allow the edge) with difficulty 5c/A1, 30m.
L6 is a magnificent steep gully and ephemeral that runs along a dihedral open, 90-80 RX 40m.
L7 Another very aesthetic length along the second part of the dihedral, which has sections 80-85 RX but is relatively well protected rock.
Material: 4 screws with 2 short and 2 16-19; a complete set of friends up to 3.5 Camalot, some nail-blade and universal medium-small dice, and referrals to stretch straps guards, for abalakovs bra.
Descent: we opted for abseiling from the top of the gully. How to get in this way is highly dependent on snow conditions of the Couturier Couloir and the technical skills of those who commit the climb. We descended the gully with four double strings of 60m and 5 double strings along the canal. Then we disarrampicato up the backpacks.
From here, along the Argentiere glacier to reach the black run No. 10 showing the intermediate station of Lognan and then the parking lot.
Who wants to go to the top of the Great Rocheuse may continue from the top of the gully for the obvious gully channel that can be seen from the slot for 3 pitches or so, racciungere the top, down the hill between the Rocheuse and Green, and then down or abseil down the Whymper Couloir.
when Couturier turn right or go up the slopes towards the gully evident
easy first pitch along the spur
second shot ... it's up to Nik
a look towards the Aiguille d'Argentiere
the shooting, the last easy
through the A2 of the original route climbed for free ... can be quoted M6
Nik out of the shot A2/M6-5c-A1
and immediately starts to pull one of the most aesthetic way
a dihedral open 100m
a bit of gas in the ass ...
leave for the last shot .. aesthetic reserving a few meters by suspense, just around the corner
Nik, as enthusiastic as me about these shootings, joins me in top of the gully
with 10 doubles and a little long disarrampicata the channel back to the skis
Conditions Goulottes walls and dele: Argentiere basin in the walls seem to N in spring conditions. Today they have been drawn: The Couturier, Ginat to the Droites was Courtes skied the NE of the couloir Chevalier, Col des Cristaux; were climbed Petit Viking, the Ravanel Frendo and Farraon.
Charlet-Ghillino Madness and seem very poor ice as well as the Dolent Charlet.
It was also traced the normal route Aiguille Argentiere well as all the classic alpine ski area.
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