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Pizzo Boga (Group Grigne)
Way "Gary Hemming"
(D, 220 m, V and V +, V + comp.)
Tuesday, May 18, 2010
Lately the weather has not been particularly generous with regard to the good weather ... In fact, I believe that no one will be offended if, directly, I will say that last month the weather has really sucked (in short time shit).
Add to this the fact that, thankfully, on the one hand, the work seems to be broken down (a sign of even a minimal improvement in the economy Italiot asphyxial conditions) and that, consequently, the time available for " cazzeggimaenti mountain "is directly reduced, it will be easy to see what my state of mind after a month of abstinence from the mountain. The last walk, so to call it, was two weekends ago, when in desperation, with my better half went for a walk, interspersed with (slightly) funny drops of rain and the base of the Laorca Medale ...
With David we had heard over the weekend, both now and in withdrawal symptoms with high blood pressure work to the stars ... The weather heralded a good Tuesday and, to prevent us from feeling bad luck (which, unlike the Fotunato who is blind, he sees us do), we had been tacitly agreed that if we succeeded, we would have taken half a day just that Tuesday.
On Monday 17, after another day of fire from the perspective of the profession, we are with David and the sentence is typical of those: "At 7:30 in Ballabio?" "Ok, go."
It did not take much more ...
the morning of Tuesday, he saw me, like so many other occasions, engaged in a nice car 8b to come out without the worries monzingorgo and get shots without camera Ballabio ... Precise arrival, I find David and immediately after caffettino and ride to the bathroom, we look at him, "What you do today?" "We still have a score to settle with the Boga Pizzo ...". Go for it!
Laorca few minutes later we are, where we parked and checked you have not left anything in the car (of what we needed, I mean), we start en route to the base of the satellite above the Medal. The road
along the roof and the networks of those created to see the resistance to the curse of man: very steep, the bottom annoying, is ultimately the real difficulty of the day ...
In any case, beyond a few curses, we arrive quite quickly at the base, where we decide to go for Gary Hemming, one of two ways "classic" of the wall, or, rather, this combination of ledges interspersed jump rock. A real "gym" of rock that allows you to get real streets, spiked style that most alpine sport combining various "tirelli with ledges and narrow path ... A thought immediately was sent to the memory of large size, Aldo Tagliabue, who explore and this building with its use and made safe for climbers spent a long time. Gary Hemming
The route is evaluated as a whole "D", with points of V and V +. The original path, however, provide a central rock unpleasant albeit on low Graidi ... We intend to see it up close and happy as always, we prepare, as happens every time, something halfway between the ritual and superstitious practice, ... Harness, climbing shoes, carabiners, referrals, descenders, devilry, salcazzi, friends, slings, backpack, then off backpacks, via the lines, on the backpacks and then again the lines ... Extraction of more and more rope Laocoon be fitted with its own life who likes to twist the first time you lose sight of ...
The first pitch is a groove obliquely from right to left of a twenty-five meters of III and III +. Rock fabulous. Temperature more than mild ... We go up, laughing and enjoying the joy after so much time em ...
David, rightly, decided to merge the second traces, fifty feet of IV +, a beautiful plate technique ... Going
I feel incredibly well: the knee does not bother me, the belly is fine, his head is all ... Salgo happy, I continue even without haste ...
We expected the first steps of the typical "highlight" of the route of today: a dihedral followed by a crack, all because of V. .. Rock scream ... David left, and after muttering something at the issue, decides to take power. I screamed and began to pull out ... I climb without any problems, get to the point "out" of the crack, slightly overhanging, and I realize that the bastard Brianza, pulling straight, I slid the rope into the slot: logical continuation would be a left shift of half a meter , where a monstrous shackles would allow me to keep the difficulties in the limit of V. .. The output as "impostami" by David, however, was a bit 'more difficult ...
course, while we go up some steps leading to the first ledge with Baitella, took around there ... "You're the usual" lose off even if it's all painted, "" talk you through the paths that you're missing "and so on ... We cross the
cengione and arrive at the station. From there, originally, in theory we should move to the right, on a sort of broken pillar, with difficulties around the second, for about seventy meters ... Rocks full of brambles and broken ... uninviting, really ... Do you want to put the wonder that is offered in front of the so-called "variant"? A in particular, is necessary if for no other name given to her: "No Spit"! Beautiful plate with spigoletto Saltini IV and then, completely without nails and fun place where friends and we always nuts ...
gayer, including jokes and jokes, to further ledge, where we see indicates a further variant "giancarlo way", also very nice and always in III and IV. We enjoy all the up to yet another ledge, where a short path leads us to some information on the ways in aluminum ... The Gary Hemming goes on for quite a pillar on the right: we can follow the channel of II + that reaches the upper ledge, but we keep a couple of yards left-side of this fun on a really nice sort of rounded spigolotto.
The next ledge has a beautiful plate IV +, technical and not at all difficult, just take the time to look for handholds and supports ... E 'already all there, just read the signs that the rock sends you ...
We are increasingly happy, go up slowly, we look around, we talk about this and that to stop ...
After the plaque under the large and attractive white plate before the summit peak, the road bends to the right to circumvent a spigolotto to come to rest at the base of a crack followed by a roof overhang ...
On the right, obviously, but a dihedral undeveloped proteggibilissimo to friends of IV ...
decide to follow the crack and the roof of the original way ... While David
salt, observe, not without humor. Good Brianza, in fact (the author shortly before an adventurous abseiling rope to retrieve the lost classic of my insults worthy of a Harpagon born in Genoa of a Jewish mother and Scottish father) decides to have fun to "try" to take the slot and roof in a "different" ... Ravana a minimum, pass and then, after the roof, going right to take that which is a continuation of the dihedral and deposited on the ridge, just below the summit ...
happens with me, but it is a day of work and, as I am about to attack the crux, the phones start ringing ... I know, I know, one should leave them in cars, but one of the conditions imposed by my better half on such occasions, there is also that of holding the phone close at hand ...
nails to attack me, I say, solve the problem quickly, I received a phone call the ex-wife and then, finally, I get to ravanare like a madman on that evil roof, which is necessary to overcome a lot of effort to appeal to arms, the supports being forced very smooth and oily ...
Comnque is, after I rested a bit 'at the second attempt to grab the handle and top of the roof, gasping, Ravana, calling into question the various saints, I can recover and continue to the rocky ridge leading to IV .
Never mind the ridicule of the good David ... "You're too good to answer the phone ..." Immediately after his check, and a little 'shameful, smiles and says "let's go to the top, it should be ...".
The last traces of rocks are simple ridge, not more than grade III, we settle on the summit, where we take a small break and due to davavnti plaque in memory of Aldo Tagliabue. Around in a slightly hazy sky, stand Medal, the Coltignone, Ma'am Grignetta, Resegone, Two Hands, and behind the Noodler Campelli ... Before us, then, under your feet, look at Lecco and Brianza ...
A landscape very well known to both, but that never fails ...
It 's time for lunch, for normal people ...
For us it is time to get down there and sling along the treacherous gully equipped in a couple of good points with a wire rope for hanging clothes to dry and another two with a couple of lengths of static rope with both nodes to allow a descent "to the firefighters ".... The path is very slippery and annoying, but soon ... We find quite soon Macereto trnquillo and the path that quickly, it settles at the base and then, happy and satisfied, he drove us to the cars.
A healthy beer and then off to the ladybug, each a hug and straight at home for a healthy shower and then in the afternoon, both to his work table to pretend to be serious professions ... A half-day
Pizzo Boga enjoyed moment by moment, for which I am grateful to his friend David and I know that has allowed me to recharge and be able to continue the week ...
If the weather will make the person seriously, I know that is not the last ... Good
Mountains!!
Add to this the fact that, thankfully, on the one hand, the work seems to be broken down (a sign of even a minimal improvement in the economy Italiot asphyxial conditions) and that, consequently, the time available for " cazzeggimaenti mountain "is directly reduced, it will be easy to see what my state of mind after a month of abstinence from the mountain. The last walk, so to call it, was two weekends ago, when in desperation, with my better half went for a walk, interspersed with (slightly) funny drops of rain and the base of the Laorca Medale ...
With David we had heard over the weekend, both now and in withdrawal symptoms with high blood pressure work to the stars ... The weather heralded a good Tuesday and, to prevent us from feeling bad luck (which, unlike the Fotunato who is blind, he sees us do), we had been tacitly agreed that if we succeeded, we would have taken half a day just that Tuesday.
On Monday 17, after another day of fire from the perspective of the profession, we are with David and the sentence is typical of those: "At 7:30 in Ballabio?" "Ok, go."
It did not take much more ...
the morning of Tuesday, he saw me, like so many other occasions, engaged in a nice car 8b to come out without the worries monzingorgo and get shots without camera Ballabio ... Precise arrival, I find David and immediately after caffettino and ride to the bathroom, we look at him, "What you do today?" "We still have a score to settle with the Boga Pizzo ...". Go for it!
Laorca few minutes later we are, where we parked and checked you have not left anything in the car (of what we needed, I mean), we start en route to the base of the satellite above the Medal. The road
along the roof and the networks of those created to see the resistance to the curse of man: very steep, the bottom annoying, is ultimately the real difficulty of the day ...
In any case, beyond a few curses, we arrive quite quickly at the base, where we decide to go for Gary Hemming, one of two ways "classic" of the wall, or, rather, this combination of ledges interspersed jump rock. A real "gym" of rock that allows you to get real streets, spiked style that most alpine sport combining various "tirelli with ledges and narrow path ... A thought immediately was sent to the memory of large size, Aldo Tagliabue, who explore and this building with its use and made safe for climbers spent a long time. Gary Hemming
The route is evaluated as a whole "D", with points of V and V +. The original path, however, provide a central rock unpleasant albeit on low Graidi ... We intend to see it up close and happy as always, we prepare, as happens every time, something halfway between the ritual and superstitious practice, ... Harness, climbing shoes, carabiners, referrals, descenders, devilry, salcazzi, friends, slings, backpack, then off backpacks, via the lines, on the backpacks and then again the lines ... Extraction of more and more rope Laocoon be fitted with its own life who likes to twist the first time you lose sight of ...
The first pitch is a groove obliquely from right to left of a twenty-five meters of III and III +. Rock fabulous. Temperature more than mild ... We go up, laughing and enjoying the joy after so much time em ...
David, rightly, decided to merge the second traces, fifty feet of IV +, a beautiful plate technique ... Going
I feel incredibly well: the knee does not bother me, the belly is fine, his head is all ... Salgo happy, I continue even without haste ...
We expected the first steps of the typical "highlight" of the route of today: a dihedral followed by a crack, all because of V. .. Rock scream ... David left, and after muttering something at the issue, decides to take power. I screamed and began to pull out ... I climb without any problems, get to the point "out" of the crack, slightly overhanging, and I realize that the bastard Brianza, pulling straight, I slid the rope into the slot: logical continuation would be a left shift of half a meter , where a monstrous shackles would allow me to keep the difficulties in the limit of V. .. The output as "impostami" by David, however, was a bit 'more difficult ...
course, while we go up some steps leading to the first ledge with Baitella, took around there ... "You're the usual" lose off even if it's all painted, "" talk you through the paths that you're missing "and so on ... We cross the
cengione and arrive at the station. From there, originally, in theory we should move to the right, on a sort of broken pillar, with difficulties around the second, for about seventy meters ... Rocks full of brambles and broken ... uninviting, really ... Do you want to put the wonder that is offered in front of the so-called "variant"? A in particular, is necessary if for no other name given to her: "No Spit"! Beautiful plate with spigoletto Saltini IV and then, completely without nails and fun place where friends and we always nuts ...
gayer, including jokes and jokes, to further ledge, where we see indicates a further variant "giancarlo way", also very nice and always in III and IV. We enjoy all the up to yet another ledge, where a short path leads us to some information on the ways in aluminum ... The Gary Hemming goes on for quite a pillar on the right: we can follow the channel of II + that reaches the upper ledge, but we keep a couple of yards left-side of this fun on a really nice sort of rounded spigolotto.
The next ledge has a beautiful plate IV +, technical and not at all difficult, just take the time to look for handholds and supports ... E 'already all there, just read the signs that the rock sends you ...
We are increasingly happy, go up slowly, we look around, we talk about this and that to stop ...
After the plaque under the large and attractive white plate before the summit peak, the road bends to the right to circumvent a spigolotto to come to rest at the base of a crack followed by a roof overhang ...
On the right, obviously, but a dihedral undeveloped proteggibilissimo to friends of IV ...
decide to follow the crack and the roof of the original way ... While David
salt, observe, not without humor. Good Brianza, in fact (the author shortly before an adventurous abseiling rope to retrieve the lost classic of my insults worthy of a Harpagon born in Genoa of a Jewish mother and Scottish father) decides to have fun to "try" to take the slot and roof in a "different" ... Ravana a minimum, pass and then, after the roof, going right to take that which is a continuation of the dihedral and deposited on the ridge, just below the summit ...
happens with me, but it is a day of work and, as I am about to attack the crux, the phones start ringing ... I know, I know, one should leave them in cars, but one of the conditions imposed by my better half on such occasions, there is also that of holding the phone close at hand ...
nails to attack me, I say, solve the problem quickly, I received a phone call the ex-wife and then, finally, I get to ravanare like a madman on that evil roof, which is necessary to overcome a lot of effort to appeal to arms, the supports being forced very smooth and oily ...
Comnque is, after I rested a bit 'at the second attempt to grab the handle and top of the roof, gasping, Ravana, calling into question the various saints, I can recover and continue to the rocky ridge leading to IV .
Never mind the ridicule of the good David ... "You're too good to answer the phone ..." Immediately after his check, and a little 'shameful, smiles and says "let's go to the top, it should be ...".
The last traces of rocks are simple ridge, not more than grade III, we settle on the summit, where we take a small break and due to davavnti plaque in memory of Aldo Tagliabue. Around in a slightly hazy sky, stand Medal, the Coltignone, Ma'am Grignetta, Resegone, Two Hands, and behind the Noodler Campelli ... Before us, then, under your feet, look at Lecco and Brianza ...
A landscape very well known to both, but that never fails ...
It 's time for lunch, for normal people ...
For us it is time to get down there and sling along the treacherous gully equipped in a couple of good points with a wire rope for hanging clothes to dry and another two with a couple of lengths of static rope with both nodes to allow a descent "to the firefighters ".... The path is very slippery and annoying, but soon ... We find quite soon Macereto trnquillo and the path that quickly, it settles at the base and then, happy and satisfied, he drove us to the cars.
A healthy beer and then off to the ladybug, each a hug and straight at home for a healthy shower and then in the afternoon, both to his work table to pretend to be serious professions ... A half-day
Pizzo Boga enjoyed moment by moment, for which I am grateful to his friend David and I know that has allowed me to recharge and be able to continue the week ...
If the weather will make the person seriously, I know that is not the last ... Good
Mountains!!
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